Eid Fjord, NORWAY
January and February
Custom dates only
Ideal season is from early-January to mid-February.
1:1 $ 4,900.00 p.p.
2:1 $ 3,400.00 p.p.
3:1 $ 2,650.00 p.p.
Guide’s travel, food, and lodging
and a group-rental car included.
Norway has THE best waterfall ice climbing in the world. If you’re into ice climbing then this trip should be on your hit list.
The remote fjords along the southwestern coast of this Scandinavian country are home to the highest concentration of long waterfall ice routes anywhere in the world; not to mention mind-blowing scenery. The beauty and isolation of the area is matched by the warmth of the legendary Norse people, their captivating culture, and the top notch amenities and comforts they offer.
Skyward Mountaineering has been guiding ice climbs in the Norwegian Fjords since 2009, and though the season can be short and sometimes fickle due to the proximity to the coast, we have found reliable conditions from mid-winter through February. For those interested in making significant first ascents, there are still numerous unclimbed ice-behemoths lurking. Don’t expect crowds, or much local beta. Do expect a feeling of remoteness in a wild, northern setting.
ICE CLIMBING GEAR LIST
This list may be adjusted by your guide based on the venue and time of season.
PERSONAL GEAR YOU NEED TO BRING:
• Climbing harness with belay/rappel and gear loops.
• Climbing helmet
• Belay device
• 2 locking carabiners
• Crampons for technical climbing (step in, not strap on)
• Technical ice axes, preferably with hammers NOT adzes.
• Ice Ax tethers (optional)
• Climbing boots (full shank, stiff, mountaineering boots, NO leather hiking boots) these can be rented in Ouray.
• Hooded shell jacket
• Technical climbing pants (soft or hard shell).
• Synthetic long underwear top and bottoms (two different layer options for legs is optional)
• Synthetic mid-weight top (slightly heavier than the above layer)
• Heavy fleece or sweater top (having a layer system for your upper body is helpful,
• temperatures vary and it’s nice to have layering options)
• Warm Insulating Parka to be worn over outer layer.
• Warm hat which you can wear under your helmet.
• Neck gaiter: optional, but nice to have on cold days
• 2-3 pairs of good fitting, non-bulky, warm gloves and mittens: Gloves/mittens often get wet or damp and it is nice to have a back-up pair. Be leery of ski gloves: they can often have too much material in the palms for climbing.
• Thin liner gloves: optional, nice for when you take your gloves off, you can still
• manipulate gear with out your hands getting too cold.
• Wool socks to wear in climbing boots (a thin pair of liner socks is optional for those
• who tend to get cold feet)
• Sunglasses and sunscreen
• A 20-30 liter day pack to carry extra clothes, water and food for the day
• Small headlamp
• Water bottle or thermos: you should have one to two quart/liter capacity
• Lunch/snack food (when climbing in the ice park, it is possible to go into town for a lunch)
• Bathing suit for hot springs
Let us know what you DO NOT have. We may have it.
EQUIPMENT WE PROVIDE:
Ropes, protection, slings and other team technical equipment.
Fly into Oslo, Norway.
Overview of Eid Fjord, Norway
If you’re going to travel half-way around the world to the best ice-climbing venue in the world, you should be prepared. We’re here to make all of that happen. This trip involves up to seven back to back waterfall climbing days. While the approaches to the climbs are relatively short, the climbing itself can be strenuous. Leading up to this trip you’ll want to have good muscular endurance, so your arms can accurately swing your tools hundreds of times, and you’ll want to have good strength, so you can lock off strong. This workout will greatly increase the muscular endurance of your ice-climbing-specific muscles.
The Norwegian-Big-Ice Workout:
Warm up by skipping rope for a minimum of ten minutes.
Then complete a minimum of fifteen, maximum of twenty, repetitions (or seconds) of the following exercises.
• Pullups. (Take weight off with a bungee or a pull-up machine to enable you to complete the required repetitions.)
• Plank Pose. Lift one arm and swing it like you’re holding an ice tool.
• Hanging leg raises. If you can’t lift your legs to the bar 15 times, squeeze your knees tight to your chest, while hanging from the bar.
• 15-20 second one-armed hang off each tool. It helps to wear the gloves you’ll wear climbing. If you can’t do this one-armed, then do it with both arms, but shift more weight to one side at a time for the required time for each side.
• Strict Sit-ups
Rest for five minutes,
Do lock-offs until your arms start to shake a little. As soon as you start to shake, drop off the bar, you’re done! That completes one circuit.
To do a lock-off: Pull up and hold your chin above the bar for five seconds. Lower yourself to where your arms are bent at ninety-degrees, hold this position for five seconds. Lower yourself to where your arms are bent at one hundred-twenty-degrees, hold this position for five seconds. That’s one repetition. Lock-offs can be done on a pull-up bar or, better for our purposes, wearing gloves and using your ice tools.
Repeat this circuit 3-5 times, with five minutes rest between circuit laps. The first week repeat this circuit two times. Progress the difficulty of the circuit slightly each week by reducing the rest time between circuits by 1 minute each week so that by the 6th week you take no rest between circuits. If you can do more than 20 repetitions of any of these exercises, add weight until you can complete only 15 repetitions.
Interested in a more structured approach to training?
Participants must have prior ice and rock climbing experience, be familiar with basic knots, belaying a leader, and able to follow WI4 and 5.7. They should also be fit enough to carry a 20 kg pack uphill for an hour at a steady pace and still have energy left for climbing.