Vesper Peak
Alpine Rock Climbing
Ragged Edge (5.7, II)
This popular rock climbing route ascends 6 pitches of fantastic rock climbing on the clean granite face of Vesper Peak. Ragged Edge is defined by some delicate face climbing, moderate angle crack climbing and an exciting finish along the final arête to the summit. The moderate grade and wild exposure has made this route a modern classic accessible in a day from Seattle!
True Grit (5.7, II)
This fun route ascends just to the left of Ragged Edge for 5 pitches, making for a great back-up plan on busy days or a second lap up the mountain during a multi-day climb. Slightly harder than it’s neighbor, this route has thinner face climbing and an exciting crack climbing pitch high on the wall.
Fish And Whistle (5.10-, II)
Delicate slab climbing, an incredible thin seam and tricky face climbing define this more challenging alpine rock climb. Fish and Whistle ascends the center slab of Vesper Peak and is a great route option for more experienced rock climbers.
Located in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, Vesper Peak holds several multi-pitch rock climbing routes in a beautiful alpine setting. It is often possible to climb Vesper Peak in a single day, though many climbers may also wish to enjoy camping at an alpine lake below the peak, utilizing a basecamp to climb multiple routes in one trip.
Bonus Routes
Mile High Club (5.10-, III): This popular 7-pitch bolted route has fantastic exposure and movement up the steep southwest face of Vega North Tower.
Beyond Redlining (5.10+, IV): This direct route up the west face of Vega North Tower climbs 11 fully bolted pitches, with sustained and thoughtful climbing at the 5.10 grade.
Alpine climbing on Vesper Peak is best from early July through the end of August.
All routes on Vesper Peak require previous multi-pitch rock climbing experience.
Sea-Tac International Airport is located just south of Seattle and is the best option for flying in. A rental or personal vehicle is required as many trailheads are spread out and in remote areas.
Everett is the closest city to the Sunrise Mine trailhead and is the best launching point with several hotel and restaurant amenities. It is approximately 1 hour 15 minutes from the trailhead.
Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:
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Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body
Hiking socks: Midweight warmth/cushion
Sun hat
Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away
Sun hoody: Lightweight, great for full protection on glaciers
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection
Wind jacket: Must have an integrated hood. A non-insulated soft shell jacket is an acceptable substitute
Hard shell jacket: Lightweight rain protection
Midweight insulated jacket: Down is lighter and more compressible but synthetic is a better insulator when wet. The NW is known for rainy conditions and a synthetic puffy jacket is a safer bet for overnight alpine climbs. Synthetic jackets should have 75g/m² of continuous insulation or if down it should have 150 grams of 700+ fill.
Softshell climbing pants: Lightweight with Durable Water Resistance (DWR)
Shorts: Optional, for warmer temps on the approach
Belay gloves: leather palm and full fingered, for rope handling
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Climbing backpack: Approximately 30 liters
Approach shoes: Trail running sneakers or sticky rubber approach shoes
Rock climbing shoes: Should be comfortable for all day wear
Chalk bag w/ chalk
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
2-3 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners
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3-season tent: Lightweight, single wall tents are preferable for their ease of packing and set up though rainy conditions may dictate a double wall tent for better waterproofing
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 at a minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: (breakfast and dinner) Freeze dried meals are light and simple but may be difficult to digest, consider any "add boiling water" meal
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
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Sunglasses: CAT 4 glacier glasses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee
Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee
Fully charged phone
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
Prices are per climber/per day:
1 climber: $750/day
2 climbers: $500/climber/day
Includes:
Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide
Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock protection, anchor material)
Group camping equipment (stove, fuel and bear bag)
NW Forest Pass parking permit
Does Not Include:
Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary
Transportation
Lodging
Meals
Guide gratuity