MOAB ROCK CLIMBING

Moab is a true rock climbing mecca. Sandstone is the primary rock encountered, flawless cracks, exciting towers and even some sport climbing mixed in.

CASTLE VALLEY

Near Moab, this is one of the most iconic sandstone towers in the country. The 50 classics route Kor Engalls (5.9) graces this amazing feature, and is a Moab Rock Climbing favorite. Our rock climbing guides will allow you to access all different levels, whether you are just starting out or you are an advanced rock climber.

Moab Rock Climbing
Moab Rock Climbing

FISHER TOWERS

These mysterious and unique mud like towers are home to many difficult aid climbing lines, but the famous Stolen Chimney (5.10) route is not to be missed.

Ancient Art is likely one of the most surreal summits anywhere! The cruxes of this route, rated 5.10, are on pebble and pocket strewn faces, not in cracks. They are short and well protected and for that reason, most people find this tower easier to climb than others in the area. However, there is a sting in the tail and a 2 foot wide “sidewalk” must be crossed (or crawled!) to get onto the final 5.9 summit block. Though easy, this section is airy and exciting. The summit on this one is tiny and there is only room for one person at a time! A beautiful Moab Rock Climbing option!

RIVER ROAD

Towers, crack climbs, and adventure abounds along the Colorado river.

Lonely Vigil on the Lighthouse Tower (5.10) 5 pitch route, a good introduction to a multi pitch tower climb.

Inrfared (5.11c) 4 pitch route, mostly trad climbing with a steep sport climbing pitch.

Many more single and multi pitch climbs, ideal for intermediate to advanced climbers. 

Moab Rock Climbing
Moab Rock Climbing

POTASH ROAD

Belay from the car! Varied crack and face climbing minutes from downtown Moab. There are some great beginner climbs here and well as more difficult face and crack climbs. This is a very diverse Moab Rock Climbing option!

LONG CANYON

A mini Indian Creek with fantastic wingate sandstone.

Maverick Butress is a short approach and premier crag in Long Canyon that is great for a hot day as it faces north. Splitter cracks mostly 5.10 and up grace the walls of this beautiful canyon. A challenging Moab Rock Climbing option.

Moab Rock Climbing

MOAB ROCK CLIMBING

PERSONAL GEAR YOU NEED TO BRING: • Climbing harness with belay/rappel and gear loops. • Climbing helmet. • Belay device. • Two locking carabiners. • Crampons for technical climbing. (Step in, not strap on) • Technical ice tools, with hammers. An adze on a tool creates a significant risk to you. If you don’t have a hammer, you may cover the adze with tape and foam so it can’t cut your face if it pops out. • Ice Tool tethers. This is a long elasticized leash that prevents you from dropping an ice tool. (optional) • Climbing boots. These must be mountaineering boots. Leather hiking boots won’t work. Good quality climbing boots can be rented from Ouray Mountain Sports. Contact them directly to reserve at (970) 325-4284. • Hooded shell jacket. A waterproof/breathable (hard shell) jacket is desirable when climbing water ice. If you use a soft shell jacket make sure it is freshly washed and dried as the drying helps to restore the water repellent finish. If we climb in a soft shell we often carry a light waterproof/non-breathable shell such as the Alpine Houdini jacket made by Patagonia. • Technical climbing pants. Soft or hard shell. Should fit closely around the tops of your boots. • Gaitors. Nice if your pants are baggy and/or don’t have integrated gaitors to keep the snow out. (optional) • Synthetic long underwear top and bottoms. Two different weights for different temperature conditions. • Synthetic mid-weight top. Slightly heavier than the above layer. The Patagonia R1 Hoody is a popular example. • Warm fleece or sweater top. • Warm insulating down or synthetic parka that can be worn over all other layers. • A warm hat which can be worn under your helmet. • Neck gaiter. Optional, but recommended. • Two to three pairs of good fitting, non-bulky, warm climbing gloves and mittens. Gloves/mittens usually get wet or damp when ice climbing and it is nice to have a back-up pair with you at all times. Personally we bring two pairs of gloves and one pair of mittens for a day of winter climbing. One thin pair of gloves that are protective but not very warm; these get the most use. One medium pair of gloves that are warmer, but we can still climb with. And one pair of mittens for belaying and for extra cold days. Ski gloves usually have too much material in the palms for climbing. • Thin synthetic or wool liner gloves. (optional) • Wool socks to wear in climbing boots. A second thin pair of liner socks is optional for those who tend to get cold feet. • Sunglasses. • Sunscreen. • A 30-40 liter backpack to carry extra clothes, water and food for the day. • Small headlamp. • A small personal first aid kit containing bandages and a blister kit. • Water bottle and/or thermos: You should have one to two quart/liter capacity. • Lunch/snack food. When climbing in the Ice Park, it is possible to go into town for lunch. • Camera! • Bathing suit for hot springs. IMPORTANT: Let us know what you DO NOT have. We may have it. EQUIPMENT WE PROVIDE: Ropes, protection, slings and other team technical equipment.

MOAB ROCK CLIMBING

PERSONAL GEAR YOU NEED TO BRING: • Climbing harness with belay/rappel and gear loops. • Climbing helmet. • Belay device. • Two locking carabiners. • Crampons for technical climbing. (Step in, not strap on) • Technical ice tools, with hammers. An adze on a tool creates a significant risk to you. If you don’t have a hammer, you may cover the adze with tape and foam so it can’t cut your face if it pops out. • Ice Tool tethers. This is a long elasticized leash that prevents you from dropping an ice tool. (optional) • Climbing boots. These must be mountaineering boots. Leather hiking boots won’t work. Good quality climbing boots can be rented from Ouray Mountain Sports. Contact them directly to reserve at (970) 325-4284. • Hooded shell jacket. A waterproof/breathable (hard shell) jacket is desirable when climbing water ice. If you use a soft shell jacket make sure it is freshly washed and dried as the drying helps to restore the water repellent finish. If we climb in a soft shell we often carry a light waterproof/non-breathable shell such as the Alpine Houdini jacket made by Patagonia. • Technical climbing pants. Soft or hard shell. Should fit closely around the tops of your boots. • Gaitors. Nice if your pants are baggy and/or don’t have integrated gaitors to keep the snow out. (optional) • Synthetic long underwear top and bottoms. Two different weights for different temperature conditions. • Synthetic mid-weight top. Slightly heavier than the above layer. The Patagonia R1 Hoody is a popular example. • Warm fleece or sweater top. • Warm insulating down or synthetic parka that can be worn over all other layers. • A warm hat which can be worn under your helmet. • Neck gaiter. Optional, but recommended. • Two to three pairs of good fitting, non-bulky, warm climbing gloves and mittens. Gloves/mittens usually get wet or damp when ice climbing and it is nice to have a back-up pair with you at all times. Personally we bring two pairs of gloves and one pair of mittens for a day of winter climbing. One thin pair of gloves that are protective but not very warm; these get the most use. One medium pair of gloves that are warmer, but we can still climb with. And one pair of mittens for belaying and for extra cold days. Ski gloves usually have too much material in the palms for climbing. • Thin synthetic or wool liner gloves. (optional) • Wool socks to wear in climbing boots. A second thin pair of liner socks is optional for those who tend to get cold feet. • Sunglasses. • Sunscreen. • A 30-40 liter backpack to carry extra clothes, water and food for the day. • Small headlamp. • A small personal first aid kit containing bandages and a blister kit. • Water bottle and/or thermos: You should have one to two quart/liter capacity. • Lunch/snack food. When climbing in the Ice Park, it is possible to go into town for lunch. • Camera! • Bathing suit for hot springs. IMPORTANT: Let us know what you DO NOT have. We may have it. EQUIPMENT WE PROVIDE: Ropes, protection, slings and other team technical equipment.

MOAB ROCK CLIMBING

The Ice Clinic Workout:

Pull-ups, 5-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:

Strict sit-ups. 10-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:

Isometric Ice-Tool Hangs. 15-20 second one-armed hang off each tool. It helps to wear the gloves you’ll wear climbing. If you can’t do this one-armed, then do it with both arms, but shift more weight to one side at a time for the required time for each side. 30 seconds rest. Then:

Push ups, 10-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:

Repeat circuit three times with a 3 minute rest between laps of the circuit for one workout. Do this workout twice in the first week.

Repeat circuit four times with a 3 minute rest between circuits for one workout. Do it twice a week the second and third week. In week 3 reduce rest between circuits to 2 minutes

Repeat five times the fourth and fifth week. In week four take 2 minutes rest/circuit. In week five take a 1 minute break between laps of the circuit

The sixth week do the workout only once. Do four laps of the circuit with two minutes rest between laps to allow for recovery and super-compensation.

Why pull-ups and push-ups? Because these simple exercise works all the main muscles-groups involved in swinging, and holding onto, an ice tool. If you can’t do five pull-ups, you may want to contact us about a customized strength training plan.

IInterested in a more structured approach to training?

• Read Steve House’s and Scott Johnston’s Book: Training for the New Alpinism

• Check Out Uphill Athlete’s training and coaching options