Moab is a true rock climbing mecca. Sandstone is the primary rock encountered, flawless cracks, exciting towers and even some sport climbing mixed in.
CASTLE VALLEY
Near Moab, this is one of the most iconic sandstone towers in the country. The 50 classics route Kor Engalls (5.9) graces this amazing feature. Our rock climbing guides will allow you to access all different levels, whether you are just starting out or you are an advanced rock climber.
FISHER TOWERS
These mysterious and unique mud like towers are home to many difficult aid climbing lines, but the famous Stolen Chimney (5.10) route is not to be missed.
Ancient Art is likely one of the most surreal summits anywhere! The cruxes of this route, rated 5.10, are on pebble and pocket strewn faces, not in cracks. They are short and well protected and for that reason, most people find this tower easier to climb than others in the area. However, there is a sting in the tail and a 2 foot wide “sidewalk” must be crossed (or crawled!) to get onto the final 5.9 summit block. Though easy, this section is airy and exciting. The summit on this one is tiny and there is only room for one person at a time!
RIVER ROAD
Towers, crack climbs, and adventure abounds along the Colorado river.
Lonely Vigil on the Lighthouse Tower (5.10) 5 pitch route, a good introduction to a multi pitch tower climb.
Inrfared (5.11c) 4 pitch route, mostly trad climbing with a steep sport climbing pitch.
Many more single and multi pitch climbs, ideal for intermediate to advanced climbers.
POTASH ROAD
Belay from the car! Varied crack and face climbing minutes from downtown Moab. There are some great beginner climbs here and well as more difficult face and crack climbs.
LONG CANYON
A mini Indian Creek with fantastic wingate sandstone.
Maverick Butress is a short approach and premier crag in Long Canyon that is great for a hot day as it faces north. Splitter cracks mostly 5.10 and up grace the walls of this beautiful canyon.
PREREQUISITES
No prior rock climbing experience needed.
GEAR LIST
Let us know what you DO NOT have. We may have it.
Gear you should bring, weather and terrain dependent:
Long climbing pants such as the Patagonia Simul Alpine Pant
Shorts for warm weather climbing and approaches
Synthetic or wool T-shirt
Lightweight long sleeve synthetic or wool shirt
A medium weight synthetic or wool shirt. We use and recommend the Patagonia Capilene 4 Hoody
One medium weight insulated jacket, such as a Patagonia Piton Hybrid Hoody
A lightweight emergency rain shell such as the Patagonia Alpine Houdini or M10 Jacket
Lightweight emergency rain pants such as Patagonia Torrentshell Pants
One lightweight insulated piece such as a Patagonia Nano puff jacket or pullover
A lightweight wool or synthetic hat
A pair of lightweight fleece or lightly insulated leather-palmed gloves.
Helmet
Harness
2 locking carabiners
1 belay/rappel device
Rock shoes suitable for climbing all day, generally snug fitting with a sock
Rock shoes suitable for more difficult pitches, generally snug fitting without a sock
Good approach shoes are mandatory. Preferably with a sheet rubber sole and not with mold-injected rubber. An example of this is the La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoe.
A simple, climbing-oriented 25 liter backpack such as the Patagonia Ascentionist 25 backpack
Sunglasses
Sunhat
Sunscreen
Lipbalm with sunscreen
EQUIPMENT WE PROVIDE:
Ropes, protection, slings and other team technical equipment.
TRAINING TIPS
IInterested in a structured approach to training?
Read Steve House’s and Scott Johnston’s Book: Training for the New Alpinism
Check Out Uphill Athlete’s training and coaching options