Ouray Backcountry
Ice Climbing
The town of Ouray, Colorado attracts ice climbers from around the world each winter due to the concentration, accessibility and quality of ice and mixed climbing routes at the Ouray Ice Park. The surrounding backcountry area in Ouray and nearby towns of Telluride and Silverton add dozens more classic ice climbing routes. Nestled into the rugged San Juan mountains of southwest Colorado, with natural hot springs for après-climb relaxation, nearby resort skiing at Telluride, backcountry touring on Red Mountain Pass and a charming historical downtown, Ouray is the perfect destination for a winter ice climbing vacation.
Ouray Area
The Ouray Ice Park is undoubtedly the draw for many ice climbers, but the backcountry routes around Ouray are a great way to escape the crowds and put your ice climbing movement and multipitch systems to the test. In addition to instructional focused ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park, we offer private guided backcountry ice climbing in Ouray. Due to the lower elevation of Ouray (7,800 ft) it is common for routes to be highly seasonally dependent and may even come in and out of condition based on current cloud cover and temperatures, be prepared and flexible to seek out a rare classic if conditions line up.
Here are some of our favorite ice climbing routes in the Ouray backcountry:
Skylight Area (multiple routes from WI3 - WI5 and M4 - M8)
Dexter Slab (WI3+, II)
Gravity's Rainbow (WI4, II)
Cascade Falls (WI4, III)
The Ribbon (WI4, III)
Talisman (WI6, M6, III)
Birdbrain Boulevard (WI4, M6, IV)
Eureka
At an elevation of 9,800 ft the ghost town of Eureka, Colorado is only a 10 mile snowy drive from the small mining town of Silverton and is home to a valley with world class ice climbing on either side of the cliffs above. It is common for high avalanche conditions to make this zone inaccessible throughout much of the winter, making it particularly rewarding when we are able to climb and explore in this incredible area.
Due to the higher elevation this is often one of the first backcountry waterfall ice climbing areas to reliably form in the state of Colorado. Skyward Mountaineering has offered guided ice climbing here as early as the first days of November and good conditions have persisted well into the spring with ascents possible through late April!
Here are some of our favorite ice climbing routes in the Eureka area:
Second Gully (WI3, III)
Whorehouse Hoses (WI4/5, III)
Stairway to Heaven (WI4, III)
The Calling (WI4, M4, III)
Dukes of Hazzard (WI5, M6, III)
Bridalveil Falls
Bridal Veil Falls was first climbed in 1974 by Jeff Lowe and Mike Weis (with pound-in Snarg ice pitons and wooden straight shaft Chouinard piolets) and is one of the most iconic climbs in the region. Sitting atop the impressive frozen waterfall is a hydroelectric power station, built in 1907 to provide AC power from Blue Lake above to the Smuggler-Union mine in the cliffs below - it is one of the oldest power stations in the world!
Bridal Veil Falls is a unique 400+ foot WI5+ ice climb in Telluride, CO. Three pitches take you through winding paths of clear tubes of steep ice, overhanging chandeliers and sometimes even tunneling terrain. The powerful hydraulics from the scenic power station above create a unique climb every winter, reliably forming by mid-December. This route is not to be missed for ice climbers ready to test their steep ice climbing abilities.
Depending on conditions, the route may be 3-5 pitches in length depending on the wandering nature of the route, and culminates at the power station. We rappel the route with multiple free-hanging abseils retracing our steps down the route. After a full day of difficult ice climbing, we often opt for a celebratory late lunch in downtown Telluride.
A climber smiles at the camera on top of the classic moderate route, Dexter Creek Slabs (WI3+/4-).
Leading the steep pillar on the early season route, Direct North Face, in South Mineral Creek.
A climber leads the Ouray area mega-popular route, Upper Cascade Falls (WI4).
Leading a sustained and steep, early season pillar tucked into the Cimarron Mountains.
Rappelling down an aesthetic ice flow.
Looking up at the thin, narrow and rarely formed pitch two of Kennedy's Gully.
A climber leads the narrow runnel of ice on the ultra-classic Ames Ice Hose (WI5, M5).
Following the steep and iconic Bridalveil Falls (WI5) in Telluride, Colorado.
Ice generally is in reliable early season conditions at higher elevations around Silverton by the first week of December and remains in Ouray and Silverton through the end of March.
Backcountry ice climbing is for intermediate to advanced ice climbers. Approaches are typically 1hr in length in snow on moderate uphill slopes, climbers should have good physical fitness. No previous multipitch experience is specifically necessary.
Montrose Regional Airport is 45 minutes from Ouray. There is NO rideshare service, you may book a shuttle service or rent a vehicle with AWD/4WD (for winter driving).
There are plentiful hotels in downtown Ouray, conveniently located in walking distance to restaurants and the town hot springs for an aprés-climb relaxation.
Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Skyward Mountaineering may assist in supplying technical equipment with advanced notice. See recommended gear list below:
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Underwear: Should be comfortable for a full day of activity, synthetic or merino wool will wick moisture away from the body
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth. Layering two pairs of socks is not recommended as it may impede blood flow and make your toes colder
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter: Optional, lightweight and versatile for adding warmth around ears or covering your face in windy conditions
Softshell climbing gloves: Waterproof with high dexterity. 2 pairs recommended, one midweight and one heavyweight. Guide’s midweight recommendation - Showa Temres 282-02 (size up one from normal)
Mixed climbing gloves: Optional, these highly dexterous gloves have minimal insulation and are best for warmer days, lead climbing or mixed climbing
Midweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away. Thumb loops are recommended to keep your wrists from being exposed and your hands warmer
Heavyweight bottom baselayer
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection
Active insulation jacket: Ideal balance of breathability and warmth for winter aerobic activity
Midweight vest: Optional, adds warmth to your core without restricting movement
Softshell jacket: Midweight with a helmet compatible hood. Should have Durable Water Resistance (DWR) coating
Hardshell jacket: Optional, some climbs may be more wet or when it's snowing a hardshell jacket offers more protection
Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep. Avoid ski pants as they are often too baggy and likely to catch on your crampons
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 200 grams of 800 fill insulation
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Climbing backpack: Approximately 35 liters with ice tool attachments
On route backpack: Optional, some climbers opt to carry a larger pack to the base of the route and a smaller 18-ish liter pack while on route
Mountaineering boots: Must be rigid with toe and heel welts for full crampon compatibility
Vertical frontpoint crampons: Dualpoints are better for continuous ice while monopoints are lighter and better suited for mixed climbing
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option, though specific manufactured options exist and are more durable
Technical ice tools: Remove any adze attachment as this may pose an unnecessary hazard for waterfall ice climbing
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Recommended ice clipper compatibility
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) may be used instead
1-2 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
2 Ice Clippers
Ice tool tethers: Optional, elastic umbilical style may be used to safeguard against dropping your tools
Avalanche beacon, shovel and probe: Conditions/route specific. Your guide may provide these items for you, as necessary
Trekking pole: A single pole is helpful for balance on slippery/snowy trails
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Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 3 lenses w/ athletic fit
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Hand warmers: Optional, for those colder days
Fully charged phone
1-2 liters of water: A thermos with your favorite hot drink is recommended. Avoid water bladders and hoses as they are prone to puncture and freezing in a winter environment
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
Standard Day Rate:
1 climber: $575/day
2 climbers: $385/climber/day
Grand Cours Rate (large objectives/linkups):
1 climber: $750/day
2 climbers: $500/climber/day
Includes:
1 day of guided climbing with an AMGA Alpine guide
Group climbing equipment (ropes, ice/rock protection and anchor material)
Does Not Include:
Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary
Transportation
Lodging
Meals
Guide gratuity