Mount Shuksan
Mountaineering
Mt. Shuksan, as viewed from the Mt. Baker Ski Area, is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. The word “Shuksan” is derived from the word Shéqsan, meaning high foot in the Nooksack language. Mt. Shuksan is an iconic Cascades mountain, with steep glaciated terrain surround a dramatic rocky summit pyramid. The word “nunataq” means lonely mountain in the Inuit language, referring to the jagged rocky peaks that jut out of a glacier, perfectly describing Mt. Shuksan. Several glaciated routes in incrementally ascending difficulty all culminate at the summit pyramid, making for a perfect combination of snow and glacier climbing with moderate rock climbing for a true alpine experience.
Sulphide Glacier (PD+, 40°, III)
A great introduction to technical mountaineering, with moderate snow climbing on a large glacier that leads to the the SW Gully of the summit pyramid.
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From the Shannon Ridge trailhead, the hike-in follows an old logging road to steep switchbacks cutting through a dense forest. Eventually the trail crests a broad ridge with wonderful views of the nearby mountain, Kulshan. The trail becomes less defined as we contour to camp on the terminal moraine below the Sulphide Glacier. Camp is at a scenic overlook conveniently equipped with a nearby solar composting toilet.
Distance: 4.5 miles
Elevation gain: 3,400 feet -
From camp, we ascend the gradual Sulphide Glacier, navigating around crevasses along the way. At the base of the summit pyramid, we ascend the SW Gully, mostly a 4th class rock climb with some sections of steep snow, more-so in the early season. The summit rewards us with incredible views of the Cascade Range.
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 2,300 feet -
A leisurely morning, we'll pack up camp and hike out back to the trailhead.
Fisher Chimneys (AD, 5.6, 50°, IV)
A more committing and challenging route starting from the north side of the mountain in the Mt. Baker Ski Area. With technical terrain on each day, this route is a great introduction to more complex alpine climbing with steeper snow pitches and moderate rock climbing with an overnight pack on.
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The hike to Lake Ann begins with a descent on a well maintained trail to where climbers continue their ascent on steep switchbacks to a weakness in a large cliff band. The Fisher Chimneys climbs mostly 4th class terrain through exposed gullies and short rock steps to reach a steep snow slope, Winnie's Slide, where we set up camp.
Distance: 5.75 miles
Elevation gain: 3,800 feet -
From camp we climb several steep snow slopes, including Winnie's Slide and Hell's Highway, contouring across the Upper Curtis Glacier to join the Sulphide Glacier. From the base of the summit pyramid we climb the South Ridge of Mt. Shuksan, defined by big exposure on a broad ridge overlooking nearby Kulshan.
Distance: 1.75 miles
Elevation gain: 2,000 feet -
A leisurely morning, we pack up camp and descend the Fisher Chimneys mostly via belayed down-climbing on the short rock steps. From just above Lake Ann we return to non-technical hiking terrain. This hike-out day may be combined with the summit day as a 2-day itinerary, though most climbers appreciate the more relaxed schedule.
North Face (AD, 60°, IV)
The North Face of Mt. Shuksan is an aesthetic steep snow climb on a remote section of the mountain. More seldom climbed due to the difficulty of access, the North Face is a challenging alpine climb for advanced mountaineers. With incredible views overlooking Price Lake and sustained, committing and steep terrain, the North Face is an engaging route that should be on every alpinist’s tick list!
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There are two approach options, though most parties elect to climb the standard Fisher Chimneys. From the low camp we descend the White Salmon Glacier to a section of rock slabs below the glacier, contouring below the Hanging Glacier. The approach climbs up and across a couple snowfields and talus slopes to the Bench Camp directly below the North Face.
Distance: 6.5 miles
Elevation gain: 4,800 feet -
From the Bench Camp, we ascend the glacier, navigating around large crevasses and up a short loose rock step to gain the upper glacier. The headwall is defined by sustained steep snow climbing and a narrow runnel of snow/ice guarding the exit onto the Hanging Glacier. We then gain the Crystal Glacier on a remote side of Mt. Shuksan and contour across to gain the Sulphide Glacier, below the summit pyramid to climb up the South Ridge. We descend the route via the standard Fisher Chimneys to a camp above Winnie's Slide.
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 4,200 feet -
After a long summit day, we'll enjoy a leisurely morning, pack up camp and begin the hike out via the standard Fisher Chimneys route.
Mountaineering on Kulshan (Mt. Baker) is best from mid June through mid August.
All routes on Mt. Shuksan require previous multipitch rock climbing and mountaineering experience. It is possible to incorporate an extra day into the itinerary for novice mountaineers on the Sulphide Glacier to cover skills such as glacier travel, efficient crampon technique and self arrest.
For the north side of the mountain (Fisher Chimneys), the best launching point is Bellingham, with a robust brewery and restaurant scene and a variety of hotel options. For the south side of the mountain (Sulphide Glacier), the best launching point is Burlington where there are also several good hotel options.
Sea-Tac International Airport is located just south of Seattle and is the best option for flying in. A rental or personal vehicle is required as the trailhead is in a remote location.
Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:
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Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body. Bring one change of underwear to maintain cleanliness
Midweight socks: Mini-crew or crew length hiking socks for the approach
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter: Buff style, provides protection from the wind and sun
Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/ comfort
Softshell climbing gloves: 2 pairs recommended, one lightweight and one midweight (should be waterproof)
Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. Lighter colors are preferred
Midweight top baselayer
Midweight bottom baselayer: For colder summit days and additional warmth sleeping
Shorts: Optional, for the approach on warmer days
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures
Softshell jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, should have a helmet compatible hood
Hardshell jacket: Lightweight, non-insulated hooded jacket to provide full protection during stormy weather
Softshell pants: Midweight (non-insulated) with reinforced instep. Avoid overly baggy pants
Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down won’t “wet out” easily, though synthetic is also sufficient. Should have at least 175 grams of 700+ down 8ill or around 125g/m² synthetic insulation
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Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters
Trekking pole with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Approach shoes: Comfortable trail running/hiking sneakers
Mountaineering boots: 3-season boots with a rear welt
Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions, should be 12-point with horizontal frontpoints. Must have a plastic front basket to be compatible with your boots
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option. Some packs have an external crampon pouch which replaces this item
General mountaineering ice axe: A slightly curved shaft is better for steep snow climbing and more versatile
Second ice axe: For later in the season with icy conditions or for steeper routes such as the North Face
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
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4-season tent: Lightweight, single wall tents are preferable for their ease of packing and set up though rainy conditions may dictate a double wall tent for better waterproofing
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 at a minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: (breakfast and dinner) Freeze dried meals are light and simple but may be difficult to digest, consider any "add boiling water" meal
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Sunglasses: CAT 4 glacier glasses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee
Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee
Fully charged phone (headphones along with downloaded podcasts or a movie can be enjoyable in the evening)
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
Based on a 3-day itinerary, custom itineraries available upon request:
1 climber: $2,250
2 climbers: $1,500/climber
Includes:
Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide
Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock protection, anchor material)
Group camping equipment (stove, fuel and bear bag)
NW Forest Pass parking permit
Does Not Include:
Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary
Transportation
Lodging
Meals
Guide gratuity