Southwest Ridge

Peak 11,300

A climber in a red jacket and blue helmet is swinging his ice tool into snow above a steep section of mixed climbing. Alpenglow lights up a large, steep triangular peak in the background.

While not the most inspiring of mountain names, Peak 11,300, a reference to its elevation, is small compared to the towering neighbor Denali, but on its own it is a prominent peak rising over 4,000 ft above the landing strip on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. Once considered the perfect preparation climb for the infamous Cassin Ridge on Denali, the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 is a worthwhile climb in its own right and is on many aspiring alpinists tick list. In fact, a former owner of Skyward Mountaineering, Steve House, even selected this route as his route of choice in the book 50 Favorite Climbs in North America.

The climbing is mostly moderate, with a few sections of 5.8 climbing interspersed with steep and exposed snowy ridgeline. Traversing this ridge is never desperate, but involves much tedious negotiating of spurs, gendarme and cornices. Being a ridge climb, the overhead hazards are relatively low and the the rock quality is mostly very solid. This is a fantastic moderate Alaskan alpine adventure in a remote area with absolutely mind-blowing views in all directions.

The expedition to the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 is often planned as an 8-day itinerary, taking into account the time to fly into the West Fork of the Ruth Gorge, establish camp, recon the approach/route and allow for weather contingency. The climb itself is typically done over the course of 3 days with two bivouacs on route.

A close up photo of crampon points on a small granite edge, a belayer below looks upward.

Day 1: Grey Rock

The Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 climb begins with an alpine start and an easy 30 minute walk to the toe of the ridge. The lower portion of the route is defined by short steps of mixed climbing and multiple steep snow pitches. Guarded by a final steep snow slope called the S-Couloir, Grey Rock bivy is a large rock cave offering shelter from the wind and can comfortably fit two alpine tents. This is typically our preferred bivy spot for the first night and offers an incredible protected location conveniently located just under halfway up the route.

Day 2: Summit

The upper route is defined mostly by traversing an exposed corniced ridgeline and a few steps of mixed terrain, including the crux pitch (a short, steep rock face capped by a chockstone to surmount). There are several small and exposed bivouac options along the ridge that we may utilize, though weather permitting we often aim for the second night's bivy to be on the broad, but spectacular summit of Peak 11,300.

Day 3: Descent

The final day is spent negotiating the descent, a complex affair requiring down-climbing moderate snow slopes and rappelling a broad rocky ridge until reaching a glaciated basin below the route and navigating multiple large crevasses while walking back to camp.


The best season for climbing the SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 is typically late April through mid May, though annual snow totals may alter conditions.

The SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 is a demanding alpine climb with a high level of commitment and sustained steep snow and moderate mixed climbing terrain. Climbers must have previous ice climbing, mixed climbing and significant mountaineering experience.

Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is a 2-hour drive from Talkeetna, our launching point for expeditions in the Alaska Range. Your guide will meet you at the airport with a rental vehicle to pick up last minute items and provide transportation to and from Talkeetna. All Skyward expeditions include glacier flights into the mountains and roundtrip transportation from Anchorage.

There are plentiful hotels in Anchorage if you’d like to arrive an evening early before your trip begins. Additionally, it is possible for trip delays to occur in Talkeetna due to poor weather, all lodging costs while not on the mountain are the climber’s responsibility.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:

Based on an 8-day itinerary:

Price available upon request

Includes:

  • Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock/ice protection, anchor material)

  • Group camping equipment (tents, kitchen and camp maintenance gear)

  • All meals while in the mountains

  • Roundtrip ground transportation Anchorage - Talkeetna

  • Roundtrip ski plane flights Talkeetna - Alaska Range

  • National Park fees

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Travel to/from Anchorage

  • Flight bump to different area in the Alaska Range to extend itinerary

  • Lodging in town

  • Meals in town

  • Guide gratuity