Climb The Moose’s Tooth Via The Clasic Route, Ham And Eggs

Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth has quickly become a modern classic in Alaska mountaineering and alpine ice climbing. Thanks to an airstrip directly on the Root Canal glacier below the Moose’s Tooth, pioneered in 1999 by famed Talkeetna Air Taxi pilot, Paul Roderick, climbers are now able to set up basecamp an easy 15 minute walk from the base of the route, Ham and Eggs. Skyward Mountaineering has successfully guided climbers to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth via the ultra-classic Ham and Eggs route as well as its more challenging neighbor, Shaken Not Stirred multiple times. Many climbers choose to prep for a guided climb of Ham and Eggs by joining us for ice climbing in Ouray where we can very closely simulate the technical challenge and endurance necessary for a long day in the mountains. Ham and Eggs is often the first alpine climbing route for climbers looking to venture into the Alaska Range, requiring efficient ice and steep snow climbing movement skills, moderate mixed climbing guarding, and an exposed corniced ridge traverse, it really is an alpinist’s graduation. Our commitment remains true to safely guiding challenging routes in Alaska and providing a unique, enjoyable and successful alpine experience for first-time Alaska climbers and seasoned alpinists alike.

A climber in an orange jacket is traversing a mixed snow and rock pitch in the early morning light on Ham and Eggs on the Moose's Tooth. An extensive mountain range is lit up behind him.

In July 1975, Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies and Nate Zinsser established the route, Ham and Eggs to the summit of the Moose's Tooth. After an awfully wet and failed first attempt they returned to the route a few days later and found better conditions. After 20 hours of climbing they arrived at the col below the summit ridge. Looking up the ridge encased in clouds they exclaimed “if we had some ham, we could have ham and eggs, if we had some eggs". This dark humor is emblematic of alpine climbing, sometimes it takes a bit of type II fun and positive thinking to persevere through challenges.

Set on an iconic mountain at the front of the Alaska Range, Ham and Eggs is a moderate ice and mixed route over 3,000 ft in a central couloir splitting the impressive granite southern face. Skyward Mountaineering believes in alpine ethics and while others are often content with stopping at the top of the couloir, we believe the summit still matters. Our guides help you achieve the technical training and cardio capacity so we can make the extra effort to continue up the elegant snow ridge to reach the actual summit of the Moose's Tooth.

A silhouetted climber is ascending a steep snow and ice climb in a narrow gully on Ham and Eggs on the Moose's Tooth. A large valley glacier below him has a small basecamp of tents above the Ruth Gorge.

This route is often planned as a 6-day itinerary, taking into account the time to fly into the Root Canal, establish camp, recon the route and allow for weather contingency. The climb itself is typically done over the course of 1 long day though it is also possible to enjoy a bivy at the col above the Ham and Eggs couloir. This bivouac makes for a spectacular view and can offer climbers an opportunity to break up the length of the route.

The climb begins with an alpine start and a casual 15 minute walk to the base of the route. Steady and efficient progress up the couloir with several steps of steeper ice and short sections of moderate mixed climbing interspersed with steep snow pitches lead to the exposed and corniced summit ridge. From the summit, we descend the same way with multiple rappels and are rewarded with the comforts of Base Camp waiting.

Bonus Routes:

It is possible during longer periods of good weather and if conditions are favorable to climb the neighboring and more challenging ice and mixed route, Shaken Not Stirred or even hire a flight bump to the Ruth Gorge for a bonus route such as the Japanese Couloir to the summit of Mt. Barrille.


The best season for climbing Ham and Eggs is typically mid April through early May.

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Ham and Eggs is a long and challenging alpine climb, climbers must have previous ice and mixed climbing and mountaineering experience. Additionally climbers must be in excellent cardio fitness.

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Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is a 2-hour drive from Talkeetna, our launching point for expeditions in the Alaska Range. Your guide will meet you at the airport with a rental vehicle to pick up last minute items and provide transportation to and from Talkeetna. All Skyward expeditions include glacier flights into the mountains and roundtrip transportation from Anchorage.

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There are plentiful hotels in Anchorage if you’d like to arrive an evening early before your trip begins. Additionally, it is possible for trip delays to occur in Talkeetna due to poor weather, all lodging costs while not on the mountain are the climber’s responsibility.

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Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:

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Based on a 6-day itinerary:

1 climber: $12,590
2 climbers: $7,765/climber

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Includes:

  • Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock/ice protection, anchor material)

  • Group camping equipment (tents, kitchen and camp maintenance gear)

  • All meals while in the mountains

  • Roundtrip ground transportation Anchorage - Talkeetna

  • Roundtrip ski plane flights Talkeetna - Alaska Range

  • National Park fees

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Travel to/from Anchorage

  • Flight bump to different area in the Alaska Range to extend itinerary

  • Lodging in town

  • Meals in town

  • Guide gratuity