Ham And Eggs

Moose’s Tooth

A climber in an orange jacket is traversing a mixed snow and rock pitch in the early morning light. An extensive mountain range is lit up behind him.

In July 1975, Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies and Nate Zinsser established the route, Ham and Eggs to the summit of the Moose's Tooth. After an awfully wet and failed first attempt they returned to the route a few days later and found better conditions. After 20 hours of climbing they arrived at the col below the summit ridge. Looking up the ridge encased in clouds they exclaimed “if we had some ham, we could have ham and eggs, if we had some eggs". This dark humor is emblematic of alpine climbing, sometimes it takes a bit of type II fun and positive thinking to persevere through challenges.

With an airstrip directly on the Root Canal, pioneered in 1999, that allows climbers to set up a basecamp an easy 15 minute walk from the base of the route, Ham and Eggs has become a modern classic in Alaska mountaineering, an alpinist's graduation. Set on an iconic mountain at the front of the Alaska Range, Ham and Eggs is a moderate ice and mixed route over 3,000 ft in a central couloir splitting the impressive granite southern face. Skyward Mountaineering believes in alpine ethics and while others are often content with stopping at the top of the couloir, we believe the summit still matters. Our guides help you achieve the technical training and cardio capacity so we can make the extra effort to continue up the elegant snow ridge to reach the actual summit of the Moose's Tooth.

A silhouetted climber is ascending a steep snow and ice climb in a narrow gully with a rock buttress to his side and a large valley glacier below.

This route is often planned as a 6-day itinerary, taking into account the time to fly into the Root Canal, establish camp, recon the route and allow for weather contingency. The climb itself is typically done over the course of 1 long day though it is also possible to enjoy a bivy at the col above the Ham and Eggs couloir. This bivouac makes for a spectacular view and can offer climbers an opportunity to break up the length of the route.

The climb begins with an alpine start and a casual 15 minute walk to the base of the route. Steady and efficient progress up the couloir with several steps of steeper ice and short sections of moderate mixed climbing interspersed with steep snow pitches lead to the exposed and corniced summit ridge. From the summit, we descend the same way with multiple rappels and are rewarded with the comforts of Base Camp waiting.

Bonus Routes:

It is possible during longer periods of good weather and if conditions are favorable to climb the neighboring and more challenging ice and mixed route, Shaken Not Stirred or even hire a flight bump to the Ruth Gorge for a bonus route such as the Japanese Couloir to the summit of Mt. Barrille.

The best season for climbing Ham and Eggs is typically mid April through early May.

Ham and Eggs is a long and challenging alpine climb, climbers must have previous ice and mixed climbing and mountaineering experience. Additionally climbers must be in excellent cardio fitness.

Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is a 2-hour drive from Talkeetna, our launching point for expeditions in the Alaska Range. Your guide will meet you at the airport with a rental vehicle to pick up last minute items and provide transportation to and from Talkeetna. All Skyward expeditions include glacier flights into the mountains and roundtrip transportation from Anchorage.

There are plentiful hotels in Anchorage if you’d like to arrive an evening early before your trip begins. Additionally, it is possible for trip delays to occur in Talkeetna due to poor weather, all lodging costs while not on the mountain are the climber’s responsibility.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:

    • Underwear: Should be comfortable for multiple day use, synthetic/wool fibers will wick moisture away from the body. 2-4 pairs recommended

    • Heavyweight socks: 3-4 pairs recommended, over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth

    • Sun hat

    • Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet

    • Neck gaiter: “Buff” style lightweight and wicking material, 2 recommended

    • Balaclava: Ninja style face masks can add protection during windy/bitter summit days

    • Fleece gloves: Lightweight for around camp comfort and adding warmth to your climbing glove system

    • Softshell climbing gloves: 3 pairs recommended, two midweight and one heavyweight. All models should be waterproof with high levels of dexterity. Guide recommendation: Showa TemRes 282-02 (these are midweight)

    • Insulated mittens: For earlier season objectives, should fit well enough to use while climbing during especially cold conditions

    • Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. An extra baselayer is nice for extended expeditions

    • Midweight top baselayer

    • Bottom baselayer: Two recommended, one lightweight and one heavyweight for layering options on summit days as well as additional warmth sleeping

    • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

    • Active insulation jacket: Highly breathable with stretch fabric and DWR for cold weather climbing

    • Waterproof jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood

    • Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep and DWR

    • Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips and not be insulated

    • Puffy pants: Synthetic insulated pants with full side zips

    • Lightweight insulated jacket: For shorter routes and/or during good weather windows around camp. Synthetic insulation should have at least 80g/m2 of insulation, or down insulation should have at least 120 grams of 700+ fill insulation.

    • Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 275 grams of 800+ fill insulation

    • Approach skis: With cut-to-fit skins and Silvretta bindings (they adapt to mountaineering boots for convenience but have very poor downhill ski performance). This speciality item can be provided by Skyward Mountaineering, please notify your guide

    • Alpine touring skis, skins, and boots: For climbers looking to combine easy skiing during rest days it’s possible to use this setup instead of approach skis.

    • Climbing backpack: Approximately 30 liters for single day missions

    • Avalanche transceiver

    • Trekking poles with snow basket: 3-section collapsible

    • Mountaineering boots: Double boots are required

    • Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions. Dual vertical frontpoints are recommended

    • Crampon spare parts: Extra pair of frontpoints and toe bails

    • Crampon storage bag: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option

    • Ice tools: One pair of technical tools with sliding mid pommel and spike on bottom recommended. One with adze and one with hammer is most versatile

    • Ice tool spare parts: Extra ice tool pick

    • Ice tool leash: Elastic umbilical style

    • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

    • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops, lightweight is better

    • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

    • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling

    • Adjustable personal anchor: Chain style PAS or Petzl Dual Connect Adjust is very helpful for long routes with multiple rappels

    • Prusik loop: 3 ft of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup

    • Cordalette: 18 ft of 6mm accessory cord

    • 3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

    • 1-2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing

    • Ice clippers: Two clippers, for racking ice screws on route

    • Expedition duffel bag: Approximately 140 liters

    • Basecamp sleeping bag: -20 degrees Fahrenheit for early season expeditions will be the most comfortable, though it is possible to get away with sleeping in all of your layers if using a 0 degree bag. Must have a compression sack

    • Basecamp sleeping pad: It is possible to bring a large “car camping” style inflatable/foam combo pad for basecamp use. Alternatively combining a closed cell foam pad and a lightweight inflatable pad achieves a similar R-value

    • Camp pillow

    • Insulated booties: Should have traction surface on bottom for durability walking around camp. Synthetic “hot socks” can also be paired for additional warmth/comfort when sleeping

    • Personal toiletries

    • Pee bottle: 1+ liter with wide mouth opening

    • Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes: Extra wet wipes for cleaning sunscreen off your face each evening and post-bathroom use is highly recommended

    • Bowl, spork, and mug

    • Contractor bags: 2 unscented heavy duty trash bags

    • Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields

    • Nose guard: Optional, looks nerdy but a sunburn is worse

    • Goggles: Adjustable lenses are ideal

    • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick: Bring extra for an extended expedition

    • First aid kit: Small, should include a blister kit and any personal medications

    • Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee

    • Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee

    • Hand warmers: 2 pairs

    • Solar charger with external battery bank: Bring all necessary charging cables for your electronics

    • Smartphone with plug-in headphones: Download music and podcasts for relaxing around camp. Download maps on Gaia app. A leash system for your phone is recommended.

    • Satellite messaging device: Optional, your guide will have one but it can be nice to be in control of your own communication with family back home

    • Book

    • Headlamp with fully charged batteries: Keep it small but bright. Guide tip: a rechargeable battery is more versatile

    • 2 Nalgene style water bottles: These should be wide mouth, soft bladders should be avoided as they are more likely to puncture

    • Insulated water bottle koozies: 1 per water bottle. 40 Below neoprene style are light and acceptable for all but the coldest expeditions. You may also choose to use a heavyweight sock instead for a lighter setup

    • 1 liter thermos: For around camp or if you prefer a hot drink on summit day

    • Duffel bag: Approximately 50 liters for storing items in town

    • In-town clothing: Casual, for at least 2 days

Based on a 6-day itinerary:

Price available upon request

Includes:

  • Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock/ice protection, anchor material)

  • Group camping equipment (tents, kitchen and camp maintenance gear)

  • All meals while in the mountains

  • Roundtrip ground transportation Anchorage - Talkeetna

  • Roundtrip ski plane flights Talkeetna - Alaska Range

  • National Park fees

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Travel to/from Anchorage

  • Flight bump to different area in the Alaska Range to extend itinerary

  • Lodging in town

  • Meals in town

  • Guide gratuity