Black Canyon Rock Climbing

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is a stunning natural phenomenon with dramatic landscapes and world class rock climbing. Sheer cliffs, plunging depths and millions of years of erosion have sculpted a unique national park in this remote and un-crowded iconic climbing destination.

The Black Canyon is composed of methamorphic rock formed during an uplift event about 60 million years ago and then eroded by the impressive Gunnison River cutting through the volcanic top layer. Despite the imposing appearance, there are actually several wonderful moderate routes in the Black. It is even possible to combine a private guided rock climb in the Black Canyon with instructional focused rock climbing in nearby Grand Junction for a true climbing road trip on Colorado’s Western Slope. If you’re looking to step up your game a bit and sample more challenging routes, the Black Canyon also has plenty of test-pieces, including the bulk of Colorado’s longest rock climbing routes. Due to the length of the routes, the committing nature of the climbing and common-place runout terrain, it is essential to have a partner who is able to move quickly through challenging terrain and execute consistently efficient transitions over a full day. Skyward Mountaineering employs AMGA certified Rock Guides with a resume full of personal and professional rock climbing accomplishments.

A rock climber in a green shirt is leading a steep crack.

Unlike most climbing areas, an approach to a Black Canyon route begins with a steep descent rather than an uphill hike. Most of these descents require at least a couple of rappels, making routes more committing than your average crag. Multipitch efficiency, routefinding know-how and comfort with some runouts is a must - Skyward Mountaineering's guides are well equipped to safely and efficiently guide both the moderate and more challenging rock climbing routes in the Black Canyon. Our guides will also set you up for success with local insight into the best routes, strategies, and on-route coaching.

Skyward Mountaineering is based in close proximity to both the North and South Rims of the Black Canyon National Park and has a reputable history of safely and efficiently guiding classic, moderate and challenging test-piece routes.

Here are some of our favorite rock climbing routes in the Black Canyon:

  • Ground Control to Major Tom (5.9-, III)

  • Blackjack (5.9, III)

  • Escape Artist (5.9+, III)

  • Russian Arête (5.9+, III)

  • Maiden Voyage to King Me (5.10-, III)

  • Journey Home (5.10-, III)

  • Comic Relief (5.10, III)

  • Cloaked Interpretation (5.10+, III)

  • Scenic Cruise (5.10+, IV)

  • Midsummer Night's Dream (5.11-, III)

  • Atlantis (5.11, IV)

  • Astro Dog (5.11+, V)

Climbing in the Black Canyon is best in the spring and fall when temperatures are comfortable. It is often possible to select routes to chase the sun or shade depending on current conditions. Temps in the summer can be quite hot though it is possible to climb shorter, shady routes with an early morning start.

Previous outdoor rock climbing experience is required for all guided rock climbing in the Black Canyon. With routes for various ability levels it is possible to enjoy a moderate 5.8 route or challenge yourself on a test-piece route.

Montrose Regional Airport or Grand Junction Regional Airport are the closest airports to both the North and South Rim of the Black Canyon. A rental or personal vehicle will be necessary to travel to this remote National Park, there are no reliable shuttle options.

There is a small campground conveniently located at the North Rim, for those early starts or if climbing multiple routes. There are a few hotels in Delta, Colorado, a one hour drive from the North and South Rim. Grand Junction is another option with a better restaurant scene and close to other climbing destinations for a true climbing and hiking vacation.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. See recommended gear list below:

    • Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body

    • Hiking socks: For the approach hike, crew height are best for tick and poison ivy prevention

    • Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away and keep you cooler and more comfortable during hot temps

    • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

    • Wind jacket: Should have an integrated hood, stretch fabric is often more durable

    • Hard shell jacket: Conditions dependent, lightweight protection for afternoon thunderstorms

    • Lightweight insulated jacket: Conditions dependent, down is lighter and more compressible

    • Climbing pants: Lightweight and stretchy

    • On-route pack: Approximately 20 liters. We will start the approach wearing harness and helmet so packs can be minimalistic.

    • Approach shoes: Must have sticky rubber outsole for security while scrambling on the approach and/or descent

    • Rock climbing shoes: Comfortable for all day wear

    • Chalk bag w/ chalk

    • Belay gloves: Full fingered recommended

    • Crack gloves: Optional, manufactured tape gloves are more comfortable and provide base coverage for protection while hand jamming

    • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

    • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops

    • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

    • Assisted braking device: Your guide can provide a lightweight device to securely belay the leader, but if have a preferred device such as a GriGri, you may bring that

    • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead

    • 2 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

    • 1-2 Non locking carabiners

    • Athletic tape: Optional, avoid generic pharmacy brands as they are not as durable or sticky

    • Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 3 lenses w/ athletic fit

    • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick

    • First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications

    • Fully charged phone

    • Headlamp with fully charged batteries

    • 2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it. You may opt for a hydration hose for convenience while on route

    • High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwich is a great midday pick-me-up)

Standard Day Rate:

1 climber: $575/day

2 climbers: $385/climber/day

Grand Cours rate (Grade IV-V):

1 climber: $750/day

2 climbers: $500/climber/day

Includes:

  • 1 day of guided climbing with an AMGA Rock guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, rock protection and anchor material)

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Transportation

  • Lodging

  • Meals

  • Guide gratuity