Kulshan (Mt. Baker)
Mountaineering
“Kulshan” means The Shooting Place in the Nooksack language, refering to the abundance of hunting opportunities at the foot of the mountain. At 10,781 feet it is the 3rd tallest mountain in Washington, the 2nd most glaciated volcano in the Cascade Range and holds the world record for the most snowfall in a single season! With so much glaciated terrain and the combination of general mountaineering routes and steep and technical snow/ice climbs, Kulshan is the perfect spot for learning mountaineering skills and training for winter alpine objectives in the Greater Ranges.
Coleman-Deming
Located on the north side of the mountain, this route offers a great introduction to non-technical glaciated mountaineering with generally less crowding.
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Heliotrope Ridge follows a well maintained trail through a dense rain forest forest until a steeper section of trail just above tree line provides incredible views of the heavily crevassed lower Coleman and Roosevelt glaciers. We'll establish camp at the Hogsback Camp at 5,800ft with incredible views of the impressive Coleman Headwall above.
Distance: 3.5 miles
Elevation gain: 2,300 feet
Total time: 4 hours -
We spend this day focusing on learning the skills necessary for our climb and to help you become a self-sufficient mountaineer. We hike above camp to the lower Coleman Glacier, practicing skills such as:
Crampon and ice axe technique
Self-arrest
Glacier travel
Snow anchors
Intro to crevasse rescue
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An alpine start has us start our climb at dark-o-clock. The route is defined by moderate snow slopes with multiple crevasse crossings to the base of a rocky Pumice Ridge and the Roman Wall where the terrain steepens and we put the newly learned snow climbing skills to use. From the summit we're able to look down into the summit crater and across the entire North Cascades. We descend the same route back to camp, pack up and hike out to the trailhead.
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 4,900 feet
Total time: 6-7 hours to summit
Easton Glacier
Similar to the Coleman-Deming route this is a great introduction to general mountaineering and often has more significant crevasse navigation to practice.
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From the Park Butte trailhead, the we follow a well maintained trail through Schreiber's Meadow and across a few streams. Once at tree line, the Railroad Grade ascends a narrow ridge formed by the lateral moraine. We'll establish camp at Sandy Camp with views of the entire south side of the mountain.
Distance: 4.4 miles
Elevation gain: 2,550 feet
Total time: 4.5 hours -
We spend this day focusing on learning the skills necessary for our climb and to help you become a self-sufficient mountaineer. We hike above camp to the lower Easton Glacier, practicing skills such as:
Crampon and ice axe technique
Self-arrest
Glacier travel
Snow anchors
Intro to crevasse rescue
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An alpine start has us starting the climb at dark-o-clock. The route is defined by moderate glaciated snow slopes and multiple crevasses, we'll utilize some of the skills practiced the day before. Below the steeper and final section of our climb, the Roman Wall, we have an incredible view of the summit crater. From the summit we enjoy a well deserved celebration and then begin the descent down the same route back to camp. Once at camp we pack up and continue down to the trailhead.
Distance: 4.5 miles
Elevation gain: 5,000 feet
Total time: 6-7 hours to summit
North Ridge (AI4, 60°, IV)
The North Ridge is an iconic technical mountaineering route defined by consistently steep pitches of snow climbing, a few moderate pitches of ice on the serac headwall and great exposure above broken glaciated terrain. This route should be on every alpinist's tick list!
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The Heliotrope Ridge trail follows a well maintained path through the dense rainforest. We'll establish camp at the Hogsback Camp at 5,800ft. We may also spend a few hours in the afternoon doing reconnaissance of the approach across the broken Coleman Glacier.
Distance: 3.5 miles
Elevation gain: 2,300 feet
Total time: 3-4 hours -
The climb begins by traversing the heavily crevassed lower Coleman Glacier. Once at the toe of the North Ridge climbers will put their calf endurance and alpine efficiency to the test with sustained steep snow climbing. The serac headwall guards the upper half of the route where we climb a few pitches of alpine ice. A final section of steep crevasses must be climbed to reach the summit. From the summit, we descend the standard Coleman-Deming route navigating mostly moderate snow slopes back to camp.
Distance: 3.25 miles
Elevation gain: 4,900 feet
Total time: 8-9 hours to the summit -
Our standard North Ridge itinerary is a 3-day program with this final day reserved for hiking out and as a contingency day due to inclement weather. We have found most climbers enjoy the relaxation time in the mountains and don't want to stress about hiking out after a long summit day. Contact us to discuss a 2-day itinerary based on your abilities/preferences.
Mountaineering on Kulshan (Mt. Baker) is best from mid June through mid August.
For general mountaineering routes, such as the Easton or Coleman-Deming, climbers do not need any previous mountaineering experience. For the technical routes, such as the North Ridge, climbers should have previous ice climbing and mountaineering experience.
For the north side of the mountain, the best launching point is Bellingham, with a robust brewery and restaurant scene and a variety of hotel options. For the south side of the mountain, the best launching point is Burlington where there are also several good hotel options.
Technical mountaineering
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Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body. Bring one change of underwear to maintain cleanliness
Midweight socks: Mini-crew or crew length hiking socks for the approach
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter: Buff style, provides protection from the wind and sun
Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/ comfort
Softshell climbing gloves: 2 pairs recommended, one lightweight and one midweight (should be waterproof)
Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. Lighter colors are preferred
Midweight top baselayer
Midweight bottom baselayer: For colder summit days and additional warmth sleeping
Shorts: Optional, for the approach on warmer days
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures
Softshell jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, should have a helmet compatible hood
Hardshell jacket: Lightweight, non-insulated hooded jacket to provide full protection during possibly stormy weather
Softshell pants: Midweight (non-insulated) with reinforced instep
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down won’t “wet out” easily, though synthetic is also sufficient. Should have at least 175 grams of 700+ down 8ill or around 125g/m² synthetic insulation
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Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters
Trekking pole with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Approach shoes: Comfortable trail running/hiking sneakers
Mountaineering boots: Must be crampon compatible with a front and rear welt and fully rigid shank
Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions. Either technical mountaineering horizontal frontpoints or ice climbing vertical frontpoints are acceptable
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option. Some packs have an external crampon pouch which replaces this item
Technical mountaineering ice axe: A slightly curved shaft with sliding pommel and adze
Second ice tool: A slightly curved technical mountaineering axe or ice climbing tool. A hammer attachment makes for a more versatile combination
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
Prusik loop: 3 feet of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup
3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
Ice clipper: One should be sufficient for racking ice screws on route
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4-season tent: Lightweight, single wall tents are preferable for their ease of packing and set up though rainy conditions may dictate a double wall tent for better waterproofing
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 at a minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: (breakfast and dinner) Freeze dried meals are light and simple but may be difficult to digest, consider any "add boiling water" meal.
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Sunglasses: CAT 4 glacier glasses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee
Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee
Hand warmers: Optional
Fully charged phone (headphones along with downloaded podcasts or a movie can be enjoyable in the evening)
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
Sea-Tac International Airport is located just south of Seattle and is the best option for flying in. A rental or personal vehicle is required as the trailhead is in a remote location.
Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment lists below:
General mountaineering
-
Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body. Bring one change of underwear to maintain cleanliness
Midweight socks: Mini-crew or crew length hiking socks for the approach
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter: Buff style, provides protection from the wind and sun
Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/ comfort
Softshell climbing gloves: 2 pairs recommended, one lightweight and one midweight (should be waterproof)
Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. Lighter colors are preferred
Midweight top baselayer
Midweight bottom baselayer: For colder summit days and additional warmth sleeping
Shorts: Optional, for the approach on warmer days
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures
Softshell jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, should have a helmet compatible hood
Hardshell jacket: Lightweight, non-insulated hooded jacket to provide full protection during stormy weather
Softshell pants: Midweight (non-insulated) with reinforced instep. Avoid overly baggy pants
Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down won’t “wet out” easily, though synthetic is also sufficient. Should have at least 175 grams of 700+ down 8ill or around 125g/m² synthetic insulation
-
Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters
Trekking pole with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Approach shoes: Comfortable trail running/hiking sneakers
Mountaineering boots: Must be crampon compatible (with a front and rear welt) and a fully rigid shank
Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions, should be 12-point with horizontal frontpoints
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option. Some packs have an external crampon pouch which replaces this item
General mountaineering ice axe
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
2-3 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
-
4-season tent: Lightweight, single wall tents are preferable for their ease of packing and set up though rainy conditions may dictate a double wall tent for better waterproofing
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 at a minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: (breakfast and dinner) Freeze dried meals are light and simple but may be difficult to digest, consider any "add boiling water" meal.
-
Sunglasses: CAT 4 glacier glasses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee
Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee
Hand warmers: Optional
Fully charged phone (headphones along with downloaded podcasts or a movie can be enjoyable in the evening)
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
Based on a 3-day itinerary, custom itineraries available upon request:
1 climber: $2,250
2 climbers: $1,500/climber
3 climbers: $1,275/climber (general mountaineering routes only)
4 climbers: $1,125/climber (general mountaineering routes only)
Includes:
Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide
Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock protection, anchor material)
Group camping equipment (stove, fuel and bear bag)
NW Forest Pass parking permit
Does Not Include:
Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary
Transportation
Lodging
Meals
Guide gratuity