Learn to Lead Ice Climbing

An ice climber in a yellow jacket is leading a steep pitch in the Ouray Ice Park.

This 3-day Learn to Lead Ice Climbing clinic is based primarily in the Ouray Ice Park where we can focus on instruction in a more controlled and accessible environment. We may also opt to go into the backcountry on the final day for application of the skills on a backcountry multi-pitch route.

Day 1: Review ice climbing movement techniques and top-rope a few pitches for a warm up and to provide instruction before launching into more complex leading topics. Cover foundational skills for leading ice in the afternoon.

Day 2: Mock leading in the morning to apply skills from the previous day and if appropriate, climbers will take the sharp end with a guide climbing nearby to actively coach along the way.

Day 3: This may take place at the Ouray Ice Park or a backcountry route, climbers will spend the day leading, building anchors, belaying followers from above and transitioning at stations on a multi-pitch route.

A climber in red pants and a blue jacket with a pink hood pulled over her helmet is leading an ice climb. She is getting ready to swing her ice tool above her head.

December 28 - 30, 2024
January 4 - 6, 2025
February 8 - 10, 2025

Previous ice climbing experience required, climbers should be comfortable top roping WI4-. No previous lead climbing experience is required.

Montrose Regional Airport is 45 minutes from Ouray. There is NO rideshare service, you may book a shuttle service or rent a vehicle with AWD/4WD (for winter driving).

There are plentiful hotels in downtown Ouray, conveniently located in walking distance to restaurants and the town hot springs for an aprés-climb relaxation.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Skyward Mountaineering may assist in supplying technical equipment with advanced notice. See recommended equipment list below:

    • Underwear: Should be comfortable for a full day of activity, synthetic or merino wool will wick moisture away from the body

    • Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth. Layering two pairs of socks is not recommended as it may impede blood flow and make your toes colder

    • Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet

    • Neck gaiter: Optional, lightweight and versatile for adding warmth around ears or covering your face in windy conditions

    • Softshell climbing gloves: Waterproof with high dexterity. 2 pairs recommended, one midweight and one heavyweight. Guide’s midweight recommendation - Showa Temres 282-02 (size up one from normal)

    • Mixed climbing gloves: Optional, these highly dexterous gloves have minimal insulation and are best for warmer days, lead climbing or mixed climbing

    • Midweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away. Thumb loops are recommended to keep your wrists from being exposed and your hands warmer

    • Heavyweight bottom baselayer

    • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

    • Active insulation jacket: Ideal balance of breathability and warmth for winter aerobic activity

    • Midweight vest: Optional, adds warmth to your core without restricting movement

    • Softshell jacket: Midweight with a helmet compatible hood. Should have Durable Water Resistance (DWR) coating

    • Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep.  Avoid ski pants as they are often too baggy and likely to catch on your crampons

    • Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 200 grams of 800 fill insulation

    • Climbing backpack: Approximately 30 liters with ice tool attachments

    • Mountaineering boots: Must be rigid with toe and heel welts for full crampon compatibility

    • Vertical frontpoint crampons: Dualpoints are better for continuous ice while monopoints are lighter and better suited for mixed climbing

    • Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option, though specific manufactured options exist and are more durable

    • Technical ice tools: Remove any adze attachment as this may pose an unnecessary hazard for waterfall ice climbing

    • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

    • Harness: Recommended ice clipper compatibility

    • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

    • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile

    • 1-2 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

    • 1-2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing

    • 2 Ice Clippers

    • Ice screws: Optional, these can be provided by your guide

    • 8-12 Quickdraws: Optional, these can be provided by your guide. A mix of extendable and "sport" style quickdraws are used to connect the rope to the ice screw.

    • Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 3 lenses w/ athletic fit

    • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick

    • First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications

    • Hand warmers: Optional, for those colder days

    • Fully charged phone

    • 1-2 liters of water: A thermos with your favorite hot drink is recommended. Avoid water bladders and hoses as they are prone to puncture and freezing in a winter environment

    • High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)

Based on a 3-day itinerary with a minimum of 2 participants:

$990 per climber

Includes:

  • 2 days of instructional climbing with an AMGA trained Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, ice protection and anchor material)

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Transportation

  • Lodging

  • Meals

  • Guide gratuity