Kahiltna Basecamp

A climber in green pants and an orange jacket is ascending a snow and rock pitch below an overhanging rock prow.

The Kahiltna base camp is the launching point for hopeful climbers on Denali's standard West Buttress route. It also hosts a convenient venue for a multitude of technical mountaineering and alpine climbing routes varying in difficulty and commitment factors. From day trips on steep snow climbs and exposed ridges to challenging icy couloirs, or multi day varied alpine routes on challenging test-pieces. The word “Kahiltna” is a derivative of Kagheltnu Li’a, meaning glacier of river that flows directly in the Dena'ina Athabascan language. Many of the other prominent mountains viewed from the Kahiltna base camp also have original indigenous names:

  • “Denali” is a derivative of Deenaalee, meaning the tall one in the Koyukon language from indigenous peoples that lived north of the Alaska Range. As viewed from south of the Alaska Range, in the Dena’ina language the mountain is referred to as Dghelay Ka’a meaning mountain-big.

  • “Begguya” means his child and is known on USGS maps as Mt. Hunter - interestingly enough the name Mt. Hunter erroneously refers to a peak further up the Kahiltna Glacier.

  • “Sultana” means his wife and is known on USGS maps as Mt. Foraker.

The itinerary for Kahiltna Base Camp mountaineering is flexible based on climber's specific goals. We typically recommend an 8-day trip which allows climbers ample time to succeed on multiple routes within this zone. Itineraries are flexible based on weather, route selection and incorporated rest days enjoying life on the glacier.

An alpine climber ascends a narrow runnel of ice. He is wearing a large, blue down jacket and a red backpack.

Annie’s Ridge

An aesthetic snowy ridge overlooking Kahiltna base camp is defined by steep snow and steps of moderate mixed climbing. This route has multiple variations, offering climbers a unique perspective looking back down at camp with a short approach and engaging technical mountaineering. The mountain is affectionately named after a long-time base camp manager.

Bacon And Eggs, Mini-Mini Moonflower

This modern alpine climbing classic sits in the basin below Begguya’s north buttress and is defined by sustained steep ice climbing in a narrow runnel system. Commonly done as a long day climb from base camp this is a fantastic ice climbing route where efficiency and strong calves are a must.

West Ridge, Begguya

This long and committing technical mountaineering route has it all: mixed climbing, steep exposed snowy ridges, moderate ice climbing and climbing alpine style for multiple days up a big mountain. The West Ridge route is truly a classic alpine climbing test-piece.

The best season for alpine climbing at Kahiltna Basecamp is throughout the month of May.

There are a variety of route styles and difficulties at Kahiltna Base Camp, all climbers will need previous ice/mixed climbing and mountaineering experience.

Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is a 2-hour drive from Talkeetna, our launching point for expeditions in the Alaska Range. Your guide will meet you at the airport with a rental vehicle to pick up last minute items and provide transportation to and from Talkeetna. All Skyward expeditions include glacier flights into the mountains and roundtrip transportation from Anchorage.

There are plentiful hotels in Anchorage if you’d like to arrive an evening early before your trip begins. Additionally, it is possible for trip delays to occur in Talkeetna due to poor weather, all lodging costs while not on the mountain are the climber’s responsibility.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:

    • Underwear: Should be comfortable for multiple day use, synthetic/wool fibers will wick moisture away from the body. 2-4 pairs recommended

    • Heavyweight socks: 3-4 pairs recommended, over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth

    • Sun hat

    • Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet

    • Neck gaiter: “Buff” style lightweight and wicking material, 2 recommended

    • Balaclava: Ninja style face masks can add protection during windy/bitter summit days

    • Fleece gloves: Lightweight for around camp comfort and adding warmth to your climbing glove system

    • Softshell climbing gloves: 3 pairs recommended, two midweight and one heavyweight. All models should be waterproof with high levels of dexterity. Guide recommendation: Showa TemRes 282-02 (these are midweight)

    • Insulated mittens: For earlier season objectives, should fit well enough to use while climbing during especially cold conditions

    • Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. An extra baselayer is nice for extended expeditions

    • Midweight top baselayer

    • Bottom baselayer: Two recommended, one lightweight and one heavyweight for layering options on summit days as well as additional warmth sleeping

    • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

    • Active insulation jacket: Highly breathable with stretch fabric and DWR for cold weather climbing

    • Waterproof jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood

    • Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep and DWR

    • Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips and not be insulated

    • Puffy pants: Synthetic insulated pants with full side zips

    • Lightweight insulated jacket: For shorter routes and/or during good weather windows around camp. Synthetic insulation should have at least 80g/m2 of insulation, or down insulation should have at least 120 grams of 700+ fill insulation.

    • Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 275 grams of 800+ fill insulation

    • Approach skis: With cut-to-fit skins and Silvretta bindings (they adapt to mountaineering boots for convenience but have very poor downhill ski performance). This speciality item can be provided by Skyward Mountaineering, please notify your guide

    • Alpine touring skis, skins, and boots: For climbers looking to combine easy skiing during rest days it’s possible to use this setup instead of approach skis

    • Climbing backpack: Approximately 30 liters

    • Avalanche transceiver

    • Trekking poles with snow basket: 3-section collapsible

    • Mountaineering boots: Double boots are required

    • Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions

    • Crampon spare parts: Extra pair of frontpoints and toe bails

    • Crampon storage bag: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option

    • Ice tools: One pair of technical tools with sliding mid pommel and spike on bottom recommended. One with adze and one with hammer may be most versatile

    • Ice tool spare parts: Extra ice tool pick

    • Ice tool leash: Elastic umbilical style

    • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

    • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops, lightweight is better

    • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

    • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling

    • Adjustable personal anchor: Chain style PAS or Petzl Dual Connect Adjust is very helpful for long routes with multiple rappels

    • Prusik loop: 3 ft of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup

    • Cordalette: 18 ft of 6mm accessory cord

    • 3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

    • 2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing

    • Ice clippers: Two clippers, for racking ice screws on route

    • Expedition duffel bag: Approximately 140 liters

    • Basecamp sleeping bag: -20 degrees Fahrenheit for early season expeditions will be the most comfortable, though it is possible to get away with sleeping in all of your layers if using a 0 degree bag. Must have a compression sack

    • Basecamp sleeping pad: It is possible to bring a large “car camping” style inflatable/foam combo pad for basecamp use. Alternatively combining a closed cell foam pad and a lightweight inflatable pad achieves a similar R-value.

    • Camp pillow

    • Insulated booties: Should have traction surface on bottom for durability walking around camp. Synthetic “hot socks” can also be paired for additional warmth/comfort when sleeping

    • Personal toiletries

    • Pee bottle: 1+ liter with wide mouth opening

    • Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes: Extra wet wipes for cleaning sunscreen off your face each evening and post-bathroom use is highly recommended

    • Bowl, spork, and mug

    • Contractor bags: 2 unscented heavy duty trash bags

    • Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields

    • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick

    • First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications

    • Pee funnel (for women)

    • Hand warmers: Optional

    • Fully charged phone (headphones along with downloaded podcasts or a movie can be enjoyable in the evening)

    • Headlamp with fully charged batteries

    • External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables

    • 2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it

    • High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)

Itineraries for Kahiltna Basecamp are flexible based on your specific goals:

Price available upon request

Includes:

  • Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock/ice protection, anchor material)

  • Group camping equipment (tents, kitchen and camp maintenance gear)

  • All meals while in the mountains

  • Roundtrip ground transportation Anchorage - Talkeetna

  • Roundtrip ski plane flights Talkeetna - Alaska Range

  • National Park fees

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Travel to/from Anchorage

  • Optional flight bump to different area in the Alaska Range to extend itinerary

  • Lodging in town

  • Meals in town

  • Guide gratuity