Longs Peak

Alpine Climbing

Keyhole Ridge (5.6, III)

A fantastic introduction to technical alpine climbing at 14,000ft and at a moderate grade! The Keyhole Ridge route follows the northwest ridge from above the Boulderfield camp to the summit of Longs Peak. We avoid the crowds on the hiking route, Keyhole, and descend the direct line on the Cables Route (North Face).

Casual Route (5.10-, IV)

A true alpine rock climbing benchmark defined by exposed and challenging climbing, mostly around 13,000ft on the Diamond of Longs Peak. This iconic route is a mega-classic and must-do for rock climbers who want to put their endurance and mountain experience to the test. Guarded by a 5 mile hike with 3000ft of elevation gain, followed by several pitches of low 5th class rock climbing in the North Chimney just to gain Broadway Ledge where we begin the route. The climbing is defined by fantastic 5.8/5.9 crack and face climbing to a short but steep crux 5.10a bulge. From the top of the route it is possible to rappel the East Face or continue to the summit via Kiener’s Route.

Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11-, IV)

Challenging crack climbing at 13,000 ft on the Diamond of Longs Peak defines this mega-classic route. Harder than it’s neighbor, Casual Route, but drawing a more direct line up the face without traversing makes this an attractive option for climbers with a strong crack climbing background.

An alpine climber ascends past a rocky chockstone on a mixed route.

Alpine ice/mixed climbing

Autumn through spring yields some amazing ice and mixed climbing opportunities on the mountains in Rocky Mountain National Park. With shorter daylight hours, climbers need to be efficient hikers and climbers with a diverse set of winter climbing skills. This is also the perfect training ground for bigger alpine climbing goals such as the Himalaya or Patagonia.

Dreamweaver (AI3/M2, III)

A great introduction to winter alpine climbing, Dreamweaver ascends the couloir splitting Mt. Meeker with a narrow runnel of ice and steps of easy mixed climbing that form reliably in the spring.

Alexander’s Chimney (WI4/M4, III)

This quintessential classic autumn ice and mixed climb ascends the lower East Face of Longs Peak, above Lamb’s Slide to Broadway Ledge. Alexander’s Chimney links smears of ice and pulls through a steep rocky section below an imposing chockstone. This is a must-do route for any alpine ice climber, with mostly moderate difficulty but a long approach and fun climbing in an incredible setting.

All Mixed Up (WI4, III)

Arguably the most popular multipitch water-ice climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. With 4-5 pitches of moderate ice climbing, All Mixed Up ascends an aesthetic line up the NE face of Thatchtop Mountain.

Alpine rock climbing in RMNP is best from mid-June through late August. Alpine ice/mixed climbing is often best in mid-October through mid November and again early May through early June.

All technical routes in RMNP require previous multi-pitch climbing experience. With long approaches, climbers must be in great cardio shape as well.

Denver International Airport is located 1.5 hours from the town of Estes Park and is the best option for flying in. A rental or personal vehicle is required as many trailheads are spread out and in remote areas.

Estes Park is the entry way for RMNP and as a tourist destination there are multiple hotels to choose from. You may choose to stay in Boulder (45 minutes away), where you can combine days of rock climbing to your itinerary as well.