Eldorado Ice Cap

Alpine Climbing

The Eldorado Ice Cap is the largest contiguous, non-volcanic glaciated terrain in the lower 48! Numerous rugged peaks jut out of the ice and offer a multitude of linkup potentials. With a steep and arduous approach to one of the most beautiful camps in the North Cascades, it’s worth spending a bit more time in this zone.

A climber in a lime green jacket and red backpack is traversing a narrow rocky ridge above a glacier with a mountainous background.

Eldorado Ice Cap Itinerary

  • A steep, unmaintained climber’s path through the forest and boulder fields is the first challenge right away. Getting to Eldorado Peak is not an easy task but climbers are rewarded with spectacular views in a remote setting and several classic alpine rock climbs accessed from a basecamp overlooking Forbidden Peak.

    Distance: 3.75 miles
    Elevation gain: 5,400 feet

  • With several route options to choose from we can adjust the exact objective based on your goals and climbing abilities. We return to basecamp in the afternoon.

    Distance: 3 miles
    Elevation gain: 2,300 feet

  • With several route options to choose from we can adjust the exact objective based on your goals and climbing abilities. We return to basecamp in the afternoon.

  • For motivated climbers it is possible to add a shorter alpine route to this final day before the hike out.

A climber in a gray helmet, white shirt,and white backpack is reaching for a handhold on a rocky ridge. The background is a rugged mountainous and glaciated terrain.

East Ridge (5.7, III), Dorado Needle

The Dorado Needle rises above the McAllister Glacier, defined by a variety of alpine rock climbing, involving steep snow, an exposed ridge and steeper walls of moderate rock climbing. The descent down the NW Ridge is an added bonus traversing the short but highly exposed ridgeline.

West Arete (5.9 IV), Eldorado Peak

The West Arete is the crown jewel of Eldorado Peak, one of the longest technical ridges in the Cascade Range. Sustained and exposed, this full day rock climb is an endurance challenge.

North Ridge (5.7, II), Eldorado Peak

The North Ridge of Eldorado is a short, exposed ridge hovering above the glacier and offering 360 degree views to Kulshan and Forbidden Peak - a great prep for bigger routes.

Southwest Buttress (5.3, III), Klawatti Peak

Klawatti Peak is a prominent peak splitting the Eldorado Ice Cap, mostly 4th and low 5th class rock climbing with some steep snow sections, this peak offers unparalleled views of the immense glaciated terrain below.

Alpine climbing on the Eldorado Ice Cap is best from late June through the end of August.

All routes on the Eldorado Ice Cap require previous multi-pitch rock climbing and mountaineering experience.

Sea-Tac International Airport is located just south of Seattle and is the best option for flying in. A rental or personal vehicle is required as many trailheads are spread out and in remote areas.

Marblemount is the closes town to the Eldorado trailhead, though Burlington is the best launching point as it offers much more hotel and restaurant amenities. It is approximately 1.5 hours from the trailhead.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:

    • Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body

    • Hiking socks: Midweight warmth/cushion

    • Sun hat

    • Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away

    • Sun hoody: Lightweight, great for full protection on glaciers

    • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

    • Wind jacket: Must have an integrated hood. A non-insulated soft shell jacket is an acceptable substitute

    • Hard shell jacket: Lightweight rain protection

    • Midweight insulated jacket: Down is lighter and more compressible but synthetic is a better insulator when wet. The NW is known for rainy conditions and a synthetic puffy jacket is a safer bet for overnight alpine climbs. Synthetic jackets should have 75g/m² of continuous insulation or if down it should have 150 grams of 700+ fill.

    • Softshell climbing pants: Lightweight with Durable Water Resistance (DWR)

    • Shorts: Optional, for warmer temps on the approach

    • Climbing gloves: lightweight softshell, for glaciated approaches

    • Belay gloves: leather palm and full fingered, for rope handling

    • Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters

    • Approach shoes: Sticky rubber approach shoes for the hike in and for moderate climbing on-route

    • Mountaineering boots: 3-season boots with rear heel welt

    • Crampons: Strap-on steel or hybrid aluminum heels/steel front general mountaineering crampons

    • Ice axe: lightweight with a slightly curved shaft, either adze or hammer is acceptable

    • Trekking pole: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient

    • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

    • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops

    • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

    • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile

    • 3-4 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

    • 1-2 Non locking carabiners

    • 4-season tent: Lightweight, single wall tents are preferable for their ease of packing and set up though rainy conditions may dictate a double wall tent for better waterproofing

    • Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag

    • Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 at a minimum

    • Personal toiletries

    • WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly

    • Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes

    • Bowl, spork, and mug

    • Overnight meals: (breakfast and dinner) Freeze dried meals are light and simple but may be difficult to digest, consider any "add boiling water" meal

    • Sunglasses: CAT 4 glacier glasses with side shields

    • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick

    • First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications

    • Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee

    • Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee

    • Hand warmers: Optional

    • Fully charged phone (headphones along with downloaded podcasts or a movie can be enjoyable in the evening)

    • Headlamp with fully charged batteries

    • External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables

    • 2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it

    • High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)

Based on a 4-day itinerary, custom itineraries available upon request:

1 climber: $3,00
2 climbers: $2,000/climber

Includes:

  • Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock protection, anchor material)

  • Group camping equipment (stove, fuel and bear bag)

  • NW Forest Pass parking permit

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Transportation

  • Lodging

  • Meals

  • Guide gratuity