Harvard Route

Mount Huntington

A climber in an orange jacket and red backpack is mixed climbing up a steep rocky buttress. He is placing his ice tools in the crack and his crampons on the granite face.

Mt. Huntington is an iconic pyramid of stone and ice with imposingly steep cliffs on all sides. In 1965, the climbing world had thought an ascent of a committing technical route in Alaska, such as the Harvard Route, to be impossible. When four young climbers from Harvard College Outing Club, David Roberts, Don Jensen, Matt Hale and Ed Bernd climbed the route it required aerial photos of their footprints on the summit to prove their ascent. Unfortunately this ascent was marred with the tragic accident of Ed Bernd fatally falling at a rappel station, this epic tale is immortalized in David Robert's book, Mountain of My Fear.

The Harvard Route combines challenging mixed climbing, steep snow and moderate ice all with an overnight cold-weather backpack. This route is one of the most sought after alpine routes in the Alaska Range, all at a lower elevation. This route is often planned as at least an 8-day itinerary, taking into account the time to fly into the West Fork of the Tokostina Glacier, establish camp, recon the approach/route, and allow for weather contingency. The climb itself is typically done over the course of 3-4 days with snow conditions often being the determinant of the itinerary.

Bonus Routes:

Other fantastic route options also exist on Mt. Huntington, such as the West Face Couloir - a continuous ice chute splitting the a shield of granite rock on the west face, clearly visible above Base Camp in the West Fork of the Tokositna Glacier. An ascent of Mount Huntington via any route would be considered a marquee achievement by any alpinist.

An alpine climber in an orange jacket is ascending a steep snow slope with short steps of rocky terrain. A jagged ridgeline and valley glacier is below and in the background.

Day 1: Access Couloir to The Upper Park

The Access Couloir to gain the route involves crossing a bergschrund and climbing about 6 pitches of moderate ice/steep snow. Above this lies the Lower and Upper Park, sections of steep snow climbing separated by a moderate mixed pitch up a narrow rock chimney. The bivy is nested against a small rock buttress below the Spiral.

Day 2: The Spiral to the Nose

Right out of the bivy site we climb a crux pitch on the Spiral, two pitches of steep granite mixed climbing, around 5.9 in difficulty. The route winds its way around the Bastion, a looming rock buttress with several pitches of moderate mixed climbing and steep snow. The spectacular Nose bivy overlooks the Tokositna Glacier and the rest of the Alaska Range, it comfortably fits a single tent.

Day 3: Summit

Immediately out of the bivy site we climb the famous Nose pitch, an overhanging granite crack that is aid climbed on lead and the follower ascends a fixed rope. Steep snow climbing and some short mixed steps lead to the Summit Ice Field, a steep and traversing snow slope. We may drop overnight gear near the Summit Boulder bivy to lighten our load as we continue up to the summit. We descend the same path and return to the cached gear at this small bivy site.

Day 4: Descent

With multiple rappels and some downclimbing we descend the West Face Couloir route, a moderate ice ramp directly below the Summit Ice Field. With around a dozen v-thread abseil anchors, we return to the upper basin above Base Camp and make the short hike around some large crevasses back to camp.

The best season for climbing the Harvard Route is mid April through mid May.

The Harvard Route is a demanding alpine climb with a high level of commitment and sustained steep snow and mixed climbing terrain. Climbers must have significant ice climbing, mixed climbing and mountaineering experience.

Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is a 2-hour drive from Talkeetna, our launching point for expeditions in the Alaska Range. Your guide will meet you at the airport with a rental vehicle to pick up last minute items and provide transportation to and from Talkeetna. All Skyward expeditions include glacier flights into the mountains and roundtrip transportation from Anchorage.

There are plentiful hotels in Anchorage if you’d like to arrive an evening early before your trip begins. Additionally, it is possible for trip delays to occur in Talkeetna due to poor weather, all lodging costs while not on the mountain are the climber’s responsibility.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:

    • Underwear: Should be comfortable for multiple day use, synthetic/wool fibers will wick moisture away from the body. 2-4 pairs recommended

    • Heavyweight socks: 3-4 pairs recommended, over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth

    • Sun hat

    • Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet

    • Neck gaiter: “Buff” style lightweight and wicking material, 2 recommended

    • Balaclava: Ninja style face masks can add protection during windy/bitter summit days

    • Fleece gloves: Lightweight for around camp comfort and adding warmth to your climbing glove system

    • Softshell climbing gloves: 3 pairs recommended, two midweight and one heavyweight. All models should be waterproof with high levels of dexterity. Guide recommendation: Showa TemRes 282-02 (these are midweight)

    • Insulated mittens: For earlier season objectives, should fit well enough to use while climbing during especially cold conditions

    • Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. An extra baselayer is nice for extended expeditions

    • Midweight top baselayer

    • Bottom baselayer: Two recommended, one lightweight and one heavyweight for layering options on summit days as well as additional warmth sleeping

    • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

    • Active insulation jacket: Highly breathable with stretch fabric and DWR for cold weather climbing

    • Waterproof jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood

    • Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep and DWR

    • Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips and not be insulated

    • Puffy pants: Synthetic insulated pants with full side zips

    • Lightweight insulated jacket: For shorter routes and/or during good weather windows around camp. Synthetic insulation should have at least 80g/m2 of insulation, or down insulation should have at least 120 grams of 700+ fill insulation.

    • Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 275 grams of 800+ fill insulation

    • Approach skis: With cut-to-fit skins and Silvretta bindings (they adapt to mountaineering boots for convenience but have very poor downhill ski performance). This speciality item can be provided by Skyward Mountaineering, please notify your guide

    • Alpine touring skis, skins, and boots: For climbers looking to combine easy skiing during rest days it’s possible to use this setup instead of approach skis

    • Climbing backpack: Approximately 40 liters

    • Avalanche transceiver

    • Trekking poles with snow basket: 3-section collapsible

    • Mountaineering boots: Double boots are required

    • Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions

    • Crampon spare parts: Extra pair of frontpoints and toe bails

    • Crampon storage bag: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option

    • Ice tools: One pair of technical tools with sliding mid pommel and spike on bottom recommended. One with adze and one with hammer

    • Ice tool spare parts: Extra ice tool pick

    • Ice tool leash: Elastic umbilical style

    • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

    • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops, lightweight is better

    • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

    • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling

    • Adjustable personal anchor: Chain style PAS or Petzl Dual Connect Adjust is very helpful for long routes with multiple rappels

    • Prusik loop: 3 ft of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup

    • Cordalette: 18 ft of 6mm accessory cord

    • 3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

    • 2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing

    • Ice clippers: Two clippers, for racking ice screws on route

    • Expedition duffel bag: Approximately 140 liters

    • Basecamp sleeping bag: -20 degrees Fahrenheit for early season expeditions will be the most comfortable, though it is possible to get away with sleeping in all of your layers if using a 0 degree bag. Must have a compression sack

    • On-route sleeping bag: +20 degree Fahrenheit bag for bivies. Must have a compression sack

    • Basecamp sleeping pad: It is possible to bring a large “car camping” style inflatable/foam combo pad for basecamp use. Alternatively combining a closed cell foam pad and a lightweight inflatable pad achieves a similar R-value.

    • On-route sleeping pad: Lightweight inflatable pad or 3/4 length closed cell foam

    • Camp pillow

    • Insulated booties: Should have traction surface on bottom for durability walking around camp. Synthetic “hot socks” can also be paired for additional warmth/comfort when sleeping

    • Personal toiletries

    • Pee bottle: 1+ liter with wide mouth opening

    • Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes: Extra wet wipes for cleaning sunscreen off your face each evening and post-bathroom use is highly recommended

    • Bowl, spork, and mug

    • Contractor bags: 2 unscented heavy duty trash bags

    • Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields

    • Nose guard: Optional, looks nerdy but a sunburn is worse

    • Goggles: Adjustable lenses are ideal

    • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick: Bring extra for an extended expedition

    • First aid kit: Small, should include a blister kit and any personal medications

    • Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee

    • Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee

    • Hand warmers: 2 pairs

    • Solar charger with external battery bank: Bring all necessary charging cables for your electronics

    • Smartphone with plug-in headphones: Download music and podcasts for relaxing around camp. Download maps on Gaia app. A leash system for your phone is recommended.

    • Satellite messaging device: Optional, your guide will have one but it can be nice to be in control of your own communication with family back home

    • Book

    • Headlamp with fully charged batteries: Keep it small but bright. Guide tip: a rechargeable battery is more versatile

    • 2 Nalgene style water bottles: These should be wide mouth, soft bladders should be avoided as they are more likely to puncture

    • Insulated water bottle koozies: 1 per water bottle. 40 Below neoprene style are light and acceptable for all but the coldest expeditions. You may also choose to use a heavyweight sock instead for a lighter setup

    • 1 liter thermos: For around camp or if you prefer a hot drink on summit day

    • Duffel bag: Approximately 50 liters for storing items in town

    • In-town clothing: Casual, for at least 2 days

Based on an 8-day itinerary:

Price available upon request

Includes:

  • Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide

  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, snow/rock/ice protection, anchor material)

  • Group camping equipment (tents, kitchen and camp maintenance gear)

  • All meals while in the mountains

  • Roundtrip ground transportation Anchorage - Talkeetna

  • Roundtrip ski plane flights Talkeetna - Alaska Range

  • National Park fees

Does Not Include:

  • Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary

  • Travel to/from Anchorage

  • Flight bump to different area in the Alaska Range to extend itinerary

  • Lodging in town

  • Meals in town

  • Guide gratuity