Mount Triumph
Alpine Climbing
Northeast Ridge (5.7, III)
Mount Triumph is set in a remote area overlooking the incredible Pickets Range. The climb is defined by a sustained steep and exposed ridgeline with about 12 pitches of rock climbing. The Northeast Ridge on Mt. Triumph lends itself to more vertical climbing rather than traversing compared to other similar routes in the Cascades.
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The trail to Thornton Lake is a popular hike through a dense second growth rain forest with awesome views at the lower lake. From there, the hike is more overgrown as it contours to the middle lake and up a steep talus and scree field to one of the most scenic bivy sites in the entire Cascade Range.
Distance: 6.5 miles
Elevation gain: 4,000 feet -
An early morning start at first light has us navigating the moderate snow and rock slabs below Mount Triumph, contouring to its base. The route is mostly 30 meter pitches of low to mid 5th class with several easier but exposed sections where the team moves together. The crux of the route is a steeper headwall with a wider hand crack splitting the face. Overall the rock quality on the Northeast Ridge is high quality with fantastic exposure, but the top of the peak is guarded by a few hundred feet of steep heather and loose rock, requiring careful navigation. We reverse our ascent path with some downclimbing and around 12 rappels.
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A casual morning wake-up, we'll pack up camp and hike out to the trailhead. Due to the steep terrain below camp and the overgrown path contouring to the lower lake, this hike out typically takes around 5 hours.
Alpine climbing on Mt. Triumph is best from early July through the end of August.
The NE Ridge on Mt. Triumph requires previous multi-pitch rock climbing experience.
Sea-Tac International Airport is located just south of Seattle and is the best option for flying in. A rental or personal vehicle is required as many trailheads are spread out and in remote areas.
Marblemount is the closes town to the Thornton Lakes trailhead, though Burlington is the best launching point as it offers much more hotel and restaurant amenities. It is approximately 1.5 hours from the trailhead.
Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing and equipment. Please see recommended equipment list below:
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Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body
Hiking socks: Midweight warmth/cushion
Sun hat
Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away
Sun hoody: Lightweight, great for full protection on glaciers
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection
Wind jacket: Must have an integrated hood. A non-insulated soft shell jacket is an acceptable substitute
Hard shell jacket: Lightweight rain protection
Midweight insulated jacket: Down is lighter and more compressible but synthetic is a better insulator when wet. The NW is known for rainy conditions and a synthetic puffy jacket is a safer bet for overnight alpine climbs. Synthetic jackets should have 75g/m² of continuous insulation or if down it should have 150 grams of 700+ fill.
Softshell climbing pants: Lightweight with Durable Water Resistance (DWR)
Shorts: Optional, for warmer temps on the approach
Belay gloves: leather palm and full fingered, for rope handling
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Climbing backpack: Approximately 40 liters
Approach shoes: Sticky rubber approach shoes for the hike in and for the moderate climbing on-route
Crampons: Aluminum strap-on
Ice axe: Lightweight
Trekking pole: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
3-4 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners
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4-season tent: Lightweight, single wall tents are preferable for their ease of packing and set up though rainy conditions may dictate a double wall tent for better waterproofing
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 at a minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: (breakfast and dinner) Freeze dried meals are light and simple but may be difficult to digest, consider any "add boiling water" meal
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Sunglasses: CAT 4 glacier glasses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Kula cloth: Optional, antimicrobial cloth for people who squat to pee
Pee funnel: Optional, to facilitate easier bathroom usage in a harness for people who squat to pee
Hand warmers: Optional
Fully charged phone (headphones along with downloaded podcasts or a movie can be enjoyable in the evening)
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
Based on a 3-day itinerary, custom itineraries available upon request:
1 climber: $2,250
2 climbers: $1,500/climber
Includes:
Guided climbing with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide
Group climbing equipment (ropes, rock protection, anchor material)
Group camping equipment (stove, fuel and bear bag)
Does Not Include:
Additional expenses associated with a change in the itinerary
Transportation
Lodging
Meals
Guide gratuity