SUMMIT THE MOOSE’S TOOTH VIA THE HAM & EGGS COULOIR
An Alpinist’s Graduation
Ham & Eggs an fantastic Alpine Climb in the Alaska Range offers great 3,000 foot ice and mixed climbing at moderate difficulty. The base camp is easy to access via a 45-minute scenic flight from Talkeetna to the Root Canal Glacier, right at the foot of the mountain. With Skyward, we believe the summit still matters. While others are often content with stopping at the top of the main Ham & Eggs Couloir, we make the extra effort to continue on the elegant snow ridge to reach the actual summit of the Mooses Tooth.
Day 1 Arrive in Anchorage.
Day 2 Sort equipment get supplies, drive to Talkeetna and prepare for flight to Root Canal Glacier. Day 3 Fly into Root Canal, establish base camp and recon route conditions.
Day 4-6 Climb Ham & Eggs (12-16 hours on the go) and weather days.
Day 7 Fly out to Talkeetna.
Day 8 Return to Anchorage and fly home.
Transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna, Glacier flight to Root Canal, guiding fee, on mountain food, park permits and associated fees.
What’s in a name? While not the most Inspiring of mountain names, Peak 11,300, a reference to its elevation, is small compared to the towering neighbor Denali, but on its own it is a prominent peak rising over 4,000 feet above the landing strip on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. Once considered the perfect preparation climb for the infamous Cassin Ridge on Denali, the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 is a worthwhile climb in its own right and is on many aspiring alpinists tick list. The climbing is mostly moderate, with a few sections of 5.8 climbing, but sustained throughout the 4,000 foot elevation gain. The climb is typically done with two bivouacs on route, often one on the broad, but spectacular summit. Traversing this ridge is never desperate, but involves much tedious negotiating of spurs, gendarme and cornices. Being a ridge climb, the overhead hazards are relatively low and the the rock quality is mostly very solid. This is a fantastic moderate Alaskan alpine adventure in a remote area with absolutely mind-blowing views in all directions.
Considered by many among the most beautiful peaks in the world due to its uniquely pyramidal structure and prominence. Mount Huntington has a storied history and is a true ‘climbers’ mountain. There is no easy way up this mountain and is stacked with high quality alpine routes, particularly on its West and South faces. Most parties ascend the ice climbing intensive, West Face Couloir due to the relatively moderate 1,000’ ice couloir which it ascends. Neighboring that is the slightly more difficult mixed climb, Harvard Route, first climbed in 1965 by a team from the Harvard Mountaineering club and immortalized in David Roberts well written book, Mountain of My Fear. Though a bit more difficult with its mixed climbing character, the Harvard Route has one of the best bivouacs in the Alaska Range, right below the infamous Nose Pitch of the route. Any ascent of Mount Huntington would be considered a marquee achievement by any alpinist.
Beyond the classics listed here, Alaska is obviously home to seemingly infinite other climbing opportunities. As often happens, the weather can throw a curveball into anyones plans for climbing in Alaska and that often dictates being versatile and creative with plans. There are so many other great climbing options to be found in Alaska, that a list here would be pointless. All of our adventures to Alaska and elsewhere are custom tailored to meet your own goals, interests and schedule. We’ve been creating custom adventure for over a quarter of a century and love the chance to help people create their own adventure of a lifetime. All our trips typically include extensive pre-trip conversations and consulting to best help you prepare, as well as ground transportation in Alaska, glacier flights, all of the on – mountain meals, group climbing, and camping equipment. We welcome the opportunity to create a custom Alaskan climbing adventure with you.