An Alpinist’s Graduation

Ham & Eggs an fantastic Alpine Climb in the Alaska Range offers great 3,000 foot ice and mixed climbing at moderate difficulty. The base camp is easy to access via a 45-minute scenic flight from Talkeetna to the Root Canal Glacier, right at the foot of the mountain. With Skyward, we believe the summit still matters. While others are often content with stopping at the top of the main Ham & Eggs Couloir, we make the extra effort to continue on the elegant snow ridge to reach the actual summit of the Mooses Tooth.

Day 1 Arrive in Anchorage.
Day 2 Sort equipment get supplies, drive to Talkeetna and prepare for flight to Root Canal Glacier. Day 3 Fly into Root Canal, establish base camp and recon route conditions.
Day 4-6 Climb Ham & Eggs (12-16 hours on the go) and weather days.
Day 7 Fly out to Talkeetna.
Day 8 Return to Anchorage and fly home.

Price includes

Transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna, Glacier flight to Root Canal, guiding fee, on mountain food, park permits and associated fees.

PEAK 11,300

What’s in a name? While not the most Inspiring of mountain names, Peak 11,300, a reference to its elevation, is small compared to the towering neighbor Denali, but on its own it is a prominent peak rising over 4,000 feet above the landing strip on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier. Once considered the perfect preparation climb for the infamous Cassin Ridge on Denali, the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 is a worthwhile climb in its own right and is on many aspiring alpinists tick list. The climbing is mostly moderate, with a few sections of 5.8 climbing, but sustained throughout the 4,000 foot elevation gain. The climb is typically done with two bivouacs on route, often one on the broad, but spectacular summit. Traversing this ridge is never desperate, but involves much tedious negotiating of spurs, gendarme and cornices. Being a ridge climb, the overhead hazards are relatively low and the the rock quality is mostly very solid. This is a fantastic moderate Alaskan alpine adventure in a remote area with absolutely mind-blowing views in all directions.


Considered by many among the most beautiful peaks in the world due to its uniquely pyramidal structure and prominence. Mount Huntington has a storied history and is a true ‘climbers’ mountain. There is no easy way up this mountain and is stacked with high quality alpine routes, particularly on its West and South faces. Most parties ascend the ice climbing intensive, West Face Couloir due to the relatively moderate 1,000’ ice couloir which it ascends. Neighboring that is the slightly more difficult mixed climb, Harvard Route, first climbed in 1965 by a team from the Harvard Mountaineering club and immortalized in David Roberts well written book, Mountain of My Fear. Though a bit more difficult with its mixed climbing character, the Harvard Route has one of the best bivouacs in the Alaska Range, right below the infamous Nose Pitch of the route. Any ascent of Mount Huntington would be considered a marquee achievement by any alpinist.


Beyond the classics listed here, Alaska is obviously home to seemingly infinite other climbing opportunities. As often happens, the weather can throw a curveball into anyones plans for climbing in Alaska and that often dictates being versatile and creative with plans. There are so many other great climbing options to be found in Alaska, that a list here would be pointless. All of our adventures to Alaska and elsewhere are custom tailored to meet your own goals, interests and schedule. We’ve been creating custom adventure for over a quarter of a century and love the chance to help people create their own adventure of a lifetime. All our trips typically include extensive pre-trip conversations and consulting to best help you prepare, as well as ground transportation in Alaska, glacier flights, all of the on – mountain meals, group climbing, and camping equipment. We welcome the opportunity to create a custom Alaskan climbing adventure with you.


Previous multi-pitch climbing experience up to 5.9 and WI 4. Excellent physical fitness and endurance; capable of climbing and hiking for 12-16 hours with only intermittent breaks. Previous winter camping experience is helpful, but not absolutely necessary.



• Climbing harness with belay/rappel and gear loops.

• Climbing helmet.

• Belay device.

• Two locking carabiners.

• Crampons for technical climbing. (Step in, not strap on)

• Technical ice tools, with hammers. An adze on a tool creates a significant risk to you. If you don’t have a hammer, you may cover the adze with tape and foam so it can’t cut your face if it pops out.

• Ice Tool tethers. This is a long elasticized leash that prevents you from dropping an ice tool. (optional)

• Climbing boots. These must be mountaineering boots. Leather hiking boots won’t work. Good quality climbing boots can be rented from Ouray Mountain Sports. Contact them directly to reserve at (970) 325-4284.

• Hooded shell jacket. A waterproof/breathable (hard shell) jacket is desirable when climbing water ice. If you use a soft shell jacket make sure it is freshly washed and dried as the drying helps to restore the water repellent finish. If we climb in a soft shell we often carry a light waterproof/non-breathable shell such as the Alpine Houdini jacket made by Patagonia.

• Technical climbing pants. Soft or hard shell. Should fit closely around the tops of your boots.

• Gaitors. Nice if your pants are baggy and/or don’t have integrated gaitors to keep the snow out. (optional)

• Synthetic long underwear top and bottoms. Two different weights for different temperature conditions.

• Synthetic mid-weight top. Slightly heavier than the above layer. The Patagonia R1 Hoody is a popular example.

• Warm fleece or sweater top.

• Warm insulating down or synthetic parka that can be worn over all other layers.

• A warm hat which can be worn under your helmet.

• Neck gaiter. Optional, but recommended.

• Two to three pairs of good fitting, non-bulky, warm climbing gloves and mittens. Gloves/mittens usually get wet or damp when ice climbing and it is nice to have a back-up pair with you at all times. Personally we bring two pairs of gloves and one pair of mittens for a day of winter climbing. One thin pair of gloves that are protective but not very warm; these get the most use. One medium pair of gloves that are warmer, but we can still climb with. And one pair of mittens for belaying and for extra cold days. Ski gloves usually have too much material in the palms for climbing.

• Thin synthetic or wool liner gloves. (optional)

• Wool socks to wear in climbing boots. A second thin pair of liner socks is optional for those who tend to get cold feet.

• Sunglasses.

• Sunscreen.

• A 30-40 liter backpack to carry extra clothes, water and food for the day.

• Small headlamp.

• A small personal first aid kit containing bandages and a blister kit.

• Water bottle and/or thermos: You should have one to two quart/liter capacity.

• Lunch/snack food. When climbing in the Ice Park, it is possible to go into town for lunch.

• Camera!

• Bathing suit for hot springs.


Let us know what you DO NOT have. We may have it.


Ropes, protection, slings and other team technical equipment.


The Ice Clinic Workout:

Pull-ups, 5-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:

Strict sit-ups. 10-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:

Isometric Ice-Tool Hangs. 15-20 second one-armed hang off each tool. It helps to wear the gloves you’ll wear climbing. If you can’t do this one-armed, then do it with both arms, but shift more weight to one side at a time for the required time for each side. 30 seconds rest. Then:

Push ups, 10-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:

Repeat circuit three times with a 3 minute rest between laps of the circuit for one workout. Do this workout twice in the first week.

Repeat circuit four times with a 3 minute rest between circuits for one workout. Do it twice a week the second and third week. In week 3 reduce rest between circuits to 2 minutes

Repeat five times the fourth and fifth week. In week four take 2 minutes rest/circuit. In week five take a 1 minute break between laps of the circuit

The sixth week do the workout only once. Do four laps of the circuit with two minutes rest between laps to allow for recovery and super-compensation.

Why pull-ups and push-ups? Because these simple exercise works all the main muscles-groups involved in swinging, and holding onto, an ice tool. If you can’t do five pull-ups, you may want to contact us about a customized strength training plan.

IInterested in a more structured approach to training?

• Read Steve House’s and Scott Johnston’s Book: Training for the New Alpinism

• Check Out Uphill Athlete’s training and coaching options