BOULDER CANYON ROCK CLIMBING
Only minutes from downtown Boulder, Boulder Canyon is packed with hundreds of well protected sport climbs, from easy slabs to steep and difficult test pieces on beautiful granite. The Canyon is also home to some famous traditional routes and multi-pitch climbs in an idyllic setting.
Empor; 5.7 3 pitches
Cozyhang; 5.7+; 3 pitches
Jackson’s Wall Direct; 5.9+ 3 pitches
Athlete’s Feat; 5.11- ; 5 pitches
THE FLATIRONS
The Iconic Flatirons stand high over Boulder and offer a stunning array of multi-pitch trad climbing, cutting edge sport routes, and easy scrambles to the summits of many of the jagged formations. There is something for everyone here and the flatirons offer a more adventurous feel due to the longer approaches and wilderness like setting.
Third Flatiron; 5.4; 8 pitches
First Flatiron; 5.6; 10 pitches
Satan’s Slab; 5.8+; 9 pitches
Maiden East Ridge; 5.10; 5 pitches
ELDORADO CANYON ROCK CLIMBING
Eldorado Canyon is a world renowned traditional climbing area on gorgeous conglomerate sandstone. Multi-pitch classics abound as well as some stellar single pitch trad climbs and a few sport climbs to round out one of the gems of the United States. Classics like The Naked Edge (11b), The Yellow Spur (9 or 10d) and Ruper (5.8) cover a wide range of difficulties and provide exciting journeys up some of the biggest walls in the canyon. If learning to lead, “Eldo” can be an exciting introduction to the art of gear placement and mental training for bold leads.
Icarus; 5.6; 4 pitches
Rewritten; 5.7; 6 pitches
Yellow Spur; 5.9+; 6 pitches
Outer Space; 5.10; 3 pitches
PREREQUISITES
Boulder Canyon: No prior rock climbing experience needed.
Flatirons and Eldorado Canyon: Participants must have prior ice and rock climbing experience, be familiar with basic knots and belaying a leader.
GEAR LIST
Let us know what you DO NOT have. We may have it.
Gear you should bring, weather and terrain dependent:
Long climbing pants such as the Patagonia Simul Alpine Pant
Shorts for warm weather climbing and approaches
Synthetic or wool T-shirt
Lightweight long sleeve synthetic or wool shirt
A medium weight synthetic or wool shirt. We use and recommend the Patagonia Capilene 4 Hoody
One medium weight insulated jacket, such as a Patagonia Piton Hybrid Hoody
A lightweight emergency rain shell such as the Patagonia Alpine Houdini or M10 Jacket
Lightweight emergency rain pants such as Patagonia Torrentshell Pants
One lightweight insulated piece such as a Patagonia Nano puff jacket or pullover
A lightweight wool or synthetic hat
A pair of lightweight fleece or lightly insulated leather-palmed gloves.
Helmet
Harness
2 locking carabiners
1 belay/rappel device
Rock shoes suitable for climbing all day, generally snug fitting with a sock
Rock shoes suitable for more difficult pitches, generally snug fitting without a sock
Good approach shoes are mandatory. Preferably with a sheet rubber sole and not with mold-injected rubber. An example of this is the La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoe.
A simple, climbing-oriented 25 liter backpack such as the Patagonia Ascentionist 25 backpack
Sunglasses
Sunhat
Sunscreen
Lipbalm with sunscreen
EQUIPMENT WE PROVIDE:
Ropes, protection, slings and other team technical equipment.
TRAINING TIPS
The Ice Clinic Workout:
Pull-ups, 5-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:
Strict sit-ups. 10-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:
Isometric Ice-Tool Hangs. 15-20 second one-armed hang off each tool. It helps to wear the gloves you’ll wear climbing. If you can’t do this one-armed, then do it with both arms, but shift more weight to one side at a time for the required time for each side. 30 seconds rest. Then:
Push ups, 10-15 reps, 30 seconds rest. Then:
Repeat circuit three times with a 3 minute rest between laps of the circuit for one workout. Do this workout twice in the first week.
Repeat circuit four times with a 3 minute rest between circuits for one workout. Do it twice a week the second and third week. In week 3 reduce rest between circuits to 2 minutes
Repeat five times the fourth and fifth week. In week four take 2 minutes rest/circuit. In week five take a 1 minute break between laps of the circuit
The sixth week do the workout only once. Do four laps of the circuit with two minutes rest between laps to allow for recovery and super-compensation.
Why pull-ups and push-ups? Because these simple exercise works all the main muscles-groups involved in swinging, and holding onto, an ice tool. If you can’t do five pull-ups, you may want to contact us about a customized strength training plan.
IInterested in a more structured approach to training?
• Read Steve House’s and Scott Johnston’s Book: Training for the New Alpinism
• Check Out Uphill Athlete’s training and coaching options